SURF OBSERVATIONS
Looking Both Ways-- 1/10/03

Big, colorful and empty

Date: January 10, 2003
Time: 0715-0930
Spot(s): "Stinky's" Conditions: Mostly dead calm, mostly clear skies, just us out
Swell: Big NW (buoy #1 maxing at 27', 17 sec., but declining rapidly)
Surf: Big wrap on the Westside, 4-6' Haw'n, shutting down

Words: Swell was going mondo on Friday. There was a green light for the Jaws Tow-in World Cup, although the Eddie was postponed. Headed west again and scanned the coastline. Best bet was "Stinky's," which was sort of borderline with the outer reefs breaking and rolling through the lineup.

The waves themselves aren't nearly as intimidating as the coastline, which is just this radical wall of coral and lava. Getting in was more the concern, but I had an alternate escape route (paddle around the nearby point to a sand beach). Some of the waves were really nice, lining up perfectly. There was a bit too much size for this spot though, so the waves didn't pitch and barrel. Still, there were some nice walls to carve on.

There were a lot of "eccentric" people on the shoreline, making me very concerned for my car. I ended up constantly scanning the horizon for set waves, then watching the parking lot for potential thiefs. This wariness actually caused more anxiety than I should have had, making the session much less fun. Still caught a few fun ones and got some exercise in as well.

Aloha from Paradise,