Would you leave this? (Shore photos by Buddy)
Date: February 9, 2003
Words: Dawned it at Pipe/Backdoor. Scored one of my best tubes of the winter--long barrel at Backdoor that threw three times before I got dusted. Shoulda made it out, but I think I got all eager to claim the ride. Came in after seeing Buddy cruising on shore.
Da boys were there, trying to decide where to go. In the meantime, we were talking story with Keener, who had a stellar trip to the island. After watching perfect, glassy tubes crank through the sandbar, I made the decision of heading in. I didn't care if anyone followed me-couldn't stand the indecision. Tom soon followed, but the rest of the boys decided to check out other spots.
The surf was just phenomenal, with perfect rights winding down the beach. The only thing bad was that the crowd was on it, with more people coming out every minute.
Tom actually settled into the left heading towards Pupukea and I eventually followed suit. That left was just dredging over a shallow bar, making for some exciting rides.
Eventually, all the boys came back to Ehukai, after finding that it was indeed the best spot around. We all reveled in the surf until the crowd made it unfun (too many cameras started showing up) and the winds kicked up.
The mantra I jokingly kept telling the guys, "Never walk away from good surf."
Aloha from Paradise,