Buddy shot me doing a cuttie on the inside!
Date: March 30, 2003
Words: Could not make the morning session so I waited until the afternoon. Was hoping to get the first pulses of a new swell rolling in that eve. Caught up with Buddy and Rich at Laniakea. Since Buddy had broken all his boards, he and Rich were taking turns with Rich's board. Buddy was cruising on the beach with the camera, playing with his son and wife.
It was a classic case of, "You should have been here yesterday," with people in the lineup raving about the great waves from the day before. I knew it was better on Saturday, but such is the life of a weekend warrior. Still, I was pretty stoked with the waves to be had, with some sets still lingering in the near five-foot range.
The crowd was pretty nuts, with people sprinkled all the way through the lineup. There were a host of longboarders on the outside, seemingly snagging every bump that came through.
On my first wave I managed to catch a set wave and ran it all the way to the inside. Followed it up with some other fun ones, including a decent tube on which I did my "look up at the curtain" pose.
However, the crowd seemed to have been getting bigger and more aggressive with the waves getting smaller, and I eventually got wave-starved on my bodyboard. Tried catching some lefts, but they just weren't very well-formed and made me get caught inside.
There were a few notables out there, including Ken Bradshaw, James Jones, and of course Rich Williams [grin]. All of them are former big wave riders. Is Laniakea where people go after they hit their prime? Guess we're all in the pasture at Laniakea, so to speak.
Aloha from Paradise,