First wave on the Makani Board--a drop-in (damn!)

Date: May 3, 2003
Time: 0545--0930 less 1/2 hour moving spots
Spot(s): Westside reefbreak, Westside pointbreak
Conditions: Light winds turning to firm onshores, not too crowded at either spot
Swell: SSW swell mixed in with dying NW
Surf: 3-5'+ Haw'n

Words: A very hyped-up south swell that nailed Tahiti was expected for the weekend. Of course, it really fired us up with hopes of our "secret spots" lighting up. As it turned out, it was mostly hype.

Drove out early to the Westside on a reconnaissance mission for the dawn patrol. Surf was definitely up, but it wasn't nearly as big as we had hoped. Such is life.

Paddled out on my bodyboard and found that what the waves lacked in size, it more than made up for in sketchiness. It seemed like two south swells were coming in simultaneously, creating mostly negative interference.

A shortboarder and John "No Fin" (on his paipo board) were reveling in the conditions, making some tough sections. I, however, was having a harder time of it, but managed to get one really good ride:

Took off on the second of two close-running waves...

...made it over the first wave which then doubled up nicely...

...did a cutback as the wave backed off...

...then raced a nice wall over the inside reef. Really fun wave!

Saw Buddy and Rich on the shore, so I decided to paddle in. We decided to try a different spot down the coast.

Ended up at Maili, which was looking really pristine. I had my new longboard that Makani made for me, and was eager to try it on the famous walls.

The waves were funky here also; with the waning NW swell coming in amidst the incoming south. The double swell made for some tricky peaks and bowls. Winds were really light in the beginning, but turned onshore as the day progressed.

Buddy and Rich scored some really good waves, just working the walls down the line. In fact, Buddy caught one from the outside all the way to the rivermouth, a ride of perhaps 300 yards.

As for me, I caught some really fun waves. My first ever wave with the Makani board I dropped in on someone (pulled out real fast though--see above). But later I caught a few long ones through the middle peak. I can't wait to try the board out in Town for some noseriding action.

Fun double-session in doubled-up swells.

Aloha from Paradise,

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