Worst Surf Session Ever -- 5/31/03
It was solid
Date: May 31, 2003
Spot(s): Laniakea, Ehukai
Conditions: Light side-offshores, tough crowd
Swell: Unseasonably strong, declining NNW swell
Surf: 3-6' Haw'n
Words: Hoped to improve on the terrible session I had
the weekend before. The surprising, out-of-season Country swell looked
like it would bring the stoke back. I guess looks can be deceiving.
Here's the lowdown:
- Overslept and woke up 1.5 hours late.
- Was forced to go into work, wasting more precious water time.
- Got to the North Shore at 0600 and found it firing. The Laniakea
parking lot was nearly full, but I managed to squeeze into a stall.
- Paddled out on my bodyboard; saw paipo John and some other familiar
- The lineup was pretty aggressive, with everyone trying to snag
some big stuff before the North Shore shut down for the summer.
- On my first wave, got dropped in on. I went around the guy, looked
back, didn't see him, gently turned down the face, and accidentally
undercut the guy.
- We got into an argument with me apologizing and him getting angrier
by the minute. He actually even false-cracked me a soft one. I was
surprised, but didn't back off.
- Kept riding for a while more, trying to make the most of an already
ruined surf session. Caught a few, but nothing epic.
- Got caught inside on a set, broke my leash, and went for a swim.
- A surfer was kind enough to have stopped my board and was cruising
in the channel. I thanked him.
- However, I found that besides the broken leash, the board itself
was broken! The rail was delaminating about eight inches, probably
from the leash wrapping on the corner before it snapped.
- Went in, all bummed out.
- Still had a lot of time to kill, and I fortunately had the borrowed
shortboard in the car, so I checked out Ehukai Beach Park.
- Found Fabian and wife Rie and Jason and Ray on the beach, checking
out the action. Ray and I decided to go out there, while the rest
went further west.
- Surf was decent, but frustrating. My weak paddling coupled with
the peaky, steep nature of the wave made for tough times (again)
- Said howzit to Mattie Liu, who used to surf in the amateurs when
I was helping out. Nice to see an old acquaintance.
- Had some spectacular wipeouts, going over the falls and blowing
takeoffs. Had a few fun rides, but the vast majority of "rides"
were crash and burn disasters.
- Came in totally demoralized and bummed out.
- Ended up being late for a meeting I had to go to.
Despite all that, I'm still looking forward to my next surf session. Maybe
even more so now. Such is the disease that is surfing.
Lots of drop-ins
Snapped leash and delaminated rail
Love Hodel at Ehukai
Longboarder going left at Ehukai
Aloha from Paradise,