"Secret southwest spot" -- 6/6/03

Cruising at dawn

Date: June 6, 2003
Time: 0545--0745
Spot(s): "Secret southwest spot"
Conditions: Ultralight offshores, big crowd
Swell: Inconsistent SSW swell
Surf: 3-4' Haw'n with some bigger, when they came

Words: Woke up late again! I gotta buy a new alarm clock. To avoid the massive crowd that would be in Town, I decided to head for a spot that lights up with a strong south and light winds.

Found the parking lot to be surprisingly crowded, but the waves looked decent enough. Paddled the longboard out for a short session.

Turns out the set that I saw was the exception and not the rule. The swell was really inconsistent island wide, so waves were few and far-between. Also, the spot was the most crowded I had ever seen it.

In fact, some of the "locals" were joking about seeing sharks in the area (there actually are some out there), changing the spot name to something more menacing, and even blocking access. Pretty funny stuff actually.

One guy came up to me when he saw my camera and told me to just name the spot "secret southwest spot" so that this secret spot wasn't revealed. I had to laugh to myself, since it looked like the secret was out.

With respect to the surfing, because I was on a short timeline, I decided to sit inside and try and catch smaller waves. Got a few fun ones, but nothing mind-blowing. I did get a chance to noseride on the Makani longboard--wouldn't you know it that the board allowed me to truly hang-five over the nose. However, the board also seemed slow down the line, not generating as much speed as my previous longboard. Maybe it was because I was recently riding a shortboard and had higher expectations for speed. Need to research more and provide feedback to Makani.

While I was on the inside, I saw several of the guys patient enough to wait for the sets snag pretty awesome waves. The swell angle was a bit too much south, making the wave fast and sectiony. However, if they made it around the section, a beautiful wall awaited, riding straight into the sunrise.

Too quickly, I had to leave. Caught some fun ones, but it wasn't the breakout session I had hoped for.

Aloha from Paradise,