Sponging Through Traffic -- 9/20/03
Date: September 20, 2003
Words: Looking down at the reefs, we could tell that it was tiny. Man, another day of lousy surf. Oh well, figured I just jump in anyway and make the most of it.
I knew it would be small, so to mix things up I decided to use my bullyboard for a change. Figured I could at least do some rail slides in the small surf.
Paddled out in the darkness and found conditions to be oil-glass. That was refreshing. First wave I caught was a screamer. I just drew a high line and raced down the wall. Hey, the surf wasn't so bad after all.
Soon I was gorging myself on the fun waves. The waves were punchy and seemed to be slowly creeping up in size. Unfortunately, so was the crowd. Apparently everybody thought that this was the place to be and the lineup soon ballooned to over 30 people. What the?
Fortunately, I able to continue catching waves, using my wave knowledge to my advantage. Also, the extra float in my bodyboard allowed me to catch waves outside of most riders. Snagged a really nice overhead set wave, doing a big carve between long trim sections.
Eventually, however, the big crowd made things frustrating. The winds turned up a notch too, so I decided to cut my session short and head in. Anyway, I had a bit of sinus congestion, so I figured it was better to take care of myself.
Postscript: Legs and back ache like a mother. Guess I use lots of different muscles when I bodyboard. Either that or I'm getting old.
Aloha from Paradise,