In the Way -- 11/1/03
Date: November 1, 2003
Words: Dawned it again at Pipeline. The new swell had definitely arrived, but seemed to be coming in from an extreme westerly direction vice the predicted NNW. I wasn't complaining.
Caught a few fun ones, but nothing exceptional. I was sort of kooking in the conditions, a bit more tentative than usual. Even accidentally knocked a surfer down when I was caught inside and he went right over me, his skeg hitting my swim fin. He lost his board on the incident, we waved at each other acknowledging we were both OK. No harm, no foul.
However, I snagged a really clean, deep, dry tube on the inside. It was one of those tiny inside waves that just funneled, the curtain way out ahead of me. Sweet!
As the crowd thickened, I focused less on my own wave catching and more on others. Sometimes it is nice to just be around all the power, duckdiving and watching things transpire.
Ended up shooting all the film in my new disposable camera. Towards the end, I strayed into line of fire of a lot of water photogs, with one of them complaining harshly. I was partly pissed because I was just caught inside, but I partly understood because they were engaged in their livelihood. Blew it off as one of those things that happen--big city life.
Here are 20 of the 27 shots I took, some better than others, for your viewing pleasure.