In the Way -- 11/1/03

Picture perfect!

Date: November 1, 2003
Time: 0545 -- 0945
Spot(s): Pipeline
Conditions: Light offshore winds, feisty crowd
Swell: Smooth, but short-period west
Surf: 3-6' Haw'n

Words: Dawned it again at Pipeline. The new swell had definitely arrived, but seemed to be coming in from an extreme westerly direction vice the predicted NNW. I wasn't complaining.

Caught a few fun ones, but nothing exceptional. I was sort of kooking in the conditions, a bit more tentative than usual. Even accidentally knocked a surfer down when I was caught inside and he went right over me, his skeg hitting my swim fin. He lost his board on the incident, we waved at each other acknowledging we were both OK. No harm, no foul.

However, I snagged a really clean, deep, dry tube on the inside. It was one of those tiny inside waves that just funneled, the curtain way out ahead of me. Sweet!

As the crowd thickened, I focused less on my own wave catching and more on others. Sometimes it is nice to just be around all the power, duckdiving and watching things transpire.

Ended up shooting all the film in my new disposable camera. Towards the end, I strayed into line of fire of a lot of water photogs, with one of them complaining harshly. I was partly pissed because I was just caught inside, but I partly understood because they were engaged in their livelihood. Blew it off as one of those things that happen--big city life.

Here are 20 of the 27 shots I took, some better than others, for your viewing pleasure.

Morning glory (click for larger)

Predawn was so smooth

The reality of surfing at Pipeline

This peak heaved at Backdoor

Bodyboarder scoring a silky round one

This drop-in had consequences

My favorite shot of the lot. Don't know how I managed *not* to duck this

This bodyboarder was too deep

Pig-dogging it

It's a shame that this angle seems to flatten the steepness

Jeff Hubbard launched a nice roll after this

After sunrise, the pro water photogs came out en masse

Sketchy warbles in the flats

Shane Dorian on a big one

Tubes were wide open

Blurry bodyboarder

Pumping under the lip

Dorian again, making it look easy

It really was steep

Surfer, pulling in