Kohei's Gun -- 11/5/03
Date: November 5, 2003
Words: Finally got a chance to meet up with my Japanese friend Kohei. I've surfed with him on several occasions through the years and it has always been a pleasure.
We planned to meet at Jockos at 8:30, but I arrived early and paddled out. Found him in the channel, but since it was crowded, we decided to find another spot. So I paddled in without catching anything.
Ended up at Pinballs which looked fun with only a couple guys out. After assisting an ailing truck, we made a strategic parking decision (so as to minimize the rip-off factor). As we got to the shoreline, the two guys out paddled in. We had it all to ourselves!
It was a beautiful Hawaiian day, with blue skies and clean conditions. Surf was well overhead, but nothing death-defying. It was pretty spectacular watching the waves crash into the point sending plumes of whitewater into the air. The waves would refract a little off the rocks, throwing peaks into the lineup. Could kind of use that to your advantage when taking off.
Waves came in more from the north, but some bigger peaks swung into the center of the bay and hooked towards the point, walling and closing out slightly. Fun setup.
Kohei was riding a 9'0" gun--his 7'6" broke in a semi-humorous incident at that very break a few days prior. I was on my little 6'6", making the most of it.
Talking story with Kohei was so refreshing. I believe he is a maverick of sorts when it comes to Japanese people. He is one of a growing trend of youth who are focusing less on the job and the grind and more on enjoying life. He's been to many many exotic surf locations including Nias, Indo, Samoa, Hokkaido, and of course, Hawaii.
Early in the session, I kicked out and fell forward. Sharp pain in my thigh. What the? Thought I kicked the board away. Brushed it off as some weird mistake and went back out. Forgot about it.
We swapped boards and I got a chance to ride his gun. It actually was quite fun once you got used to it. Sliced through the water so easily. Couldn't turn it though.
Kohei scored a really nice real deep with my shortboard, making it all the way to the inside. He scored some good stuff on his gun also.
Went in first and cruised on the beach, absorbing the environment. Just another day in paradise.
We checked out the Xcel at Sunset where I unsuccessfully tried to snag a couple of tees. Left a bodyboard with him so he could play around with his family. Another fun session with a foreign visitor. You quickly realize that foreigners are not so foreign after all.
In the coming days, my thigh bruised big time. I think I must've landed
on a semi-submerged rock on the inside. I have to learn to be more
careful, even when kicking out.