"Ekolus" -- 11/21/03
Date: November 21, 2003
Words: An unusual "reverse-cyclone" created a huge fetch from the northeast Pacific, sending a massive swell our way. Most northeast and Country spots were closed out, especially with the tradewinds. Had to decide between smallish Town or chance the Westside. I headed west on a wing and a prayer.
The waves were impressive off Kaena Point, with whitewater churning miles out to sea. However, the shoreline south of the point wasn't on the receiving end of the swell.
Bodyboarded a spot I've never gone out to before--I'll call it "Ekolus." Very sketchy reefs guard the shoreline, with sketchier locals usually in the lineup. Unfortunately, the surf wasn't quite happening--it was mostly chest-high with very few overhead sets.
Got a few tubelets, but nothing really special. As always at a new spot, it was neat trying to feel out the place. The regulars were showing their local knowledge sitting deep and finding the holeshot to make the wave.
I had a short timeline, so I had to leave after only a short session. Didn't think it would matter anyway--the swell was just too easterly. In any case, I was planning a jaunt out east to check out the carnage. Though it wasn't the session I expected, it was still a good experience.