Bigger Waves on the Big Board -- 12/19/03
Date: December 19, 2003
Words: Decided to longboard for a change. Was concerned that a new swell would make it too big for me to ride the tank, but it worked out. Swell came from a northeasterly direction, making for easier takeoffs at Lani's.
I had a fun time, taking off on some really big waves (for me). Caught one really good left backside that just opened up nicely and funneled on the inside. Snagged some even better ones on the rights, including a couple I rode all the way through the inside and one set I lucked into from the outside.
As usual, there was some stellar riding going on by the regulars. Inspiring for me to watch. Some guys make it look so easy and effortless. Hope to one day be so skilled--in the meantime, I'll enjoy pushing my limits.