Conditions were decent

Date: December 24, 2003
Time: 0630 -- 0930
Spot(s): Pipeline/Backdoor
Conditions: Mostly glassy; typically busy Pipe lineup
Swell: new WNW swell
Surf: 3-5' Haw'n

Words: Headed out to Pipe for some sponging action. Really nice enjoying some medium sized waves. Nice in the beginning with no one out, but as usual, the lineup filled up quickly.

I caught a few good ones. But the session was punctuated by more than a few closeout tumbles that had me skidding off the reef. One was particularly memorable. Took off on one at Backdoor and pulled in with no hope. I remember not bailing the board quite in time, and got pitched by the lip in an awkward position. I typically try and land on my back since that is the strongest part of my body and can handle the bumps on the reef better (wiping out is an artform, and knowing how to do it can really build confidence).

However, the wave had me in a stranglehold and I went tumbling face first on my tummy. Did not hit bottom on the initial impact, but subsequent surges pushed me straight into the reef. I shielded my face with my arms and scraped up my left forearm, right through the rash guard.

Reminded me that even on average days we are playing with fire. Went home to the wife who immediately declared, "Another injury! You'll have to quit surfing." Sigh.

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