Me going over the falls, Buddy foto

Date: February 7, 2004
Time: 0630 -- 0945
Spot(s): Rocky Point
Conditions: Light offshores; aggressive, but fairly cool crowd
Swell: small NW
Surf: 2-4' Haw'n

Words: Been trying to hookup with WestOz, another alt.surfer in town. But for some reason, we just kept missing each other. I got the pass to surf late in the eve, so I called and left a message at his place and even went there early in the morning--couldn't find him.

Went out with Buddy to Rocky Point for some shortboard action. Surf was pretty fine, with some beautiful walls to be had for the patient. It's such a rippable wave--no wonder so many people like it.

Buddy was doing his usual thing, getting slotted at will. He was using an ultrathin 6'1" that Makani shaped and had finally gotten it dialed in. Nothing better than when a board starts to magically work.

As for me, I was having a great time except with the crowd. When you're among surfers that are more proficient, it can be very frustrating. I was able to get just enough waves to keep the stoke meter high. Even managed to get tubed twice on a smallish wave. So stoked that Buddy got the tail-end of the ride.

Got a few pretty spectacular wipeouts too, just tumbling over the falls like the kook that I am. Only way you can improve is to keep pushing your limits.

Buddy had to leave a little early, and I decided to start looking for a couple more. However, before I left, a couple of guys came up to me asking my name.

Was stoked to meet WestOz and his friend Danny. Buddy had talked to Danny on the way in and told him I was still out. After so many weeks of not hooking up, I was truly stoked to finally meet him.

We talked more than we surfed, finding about each other. I just love listening to Aussie accents and verbage. But as different as we were, I'm constantly amazed that we are really quite alike, especially when it comes to our love of surfing.

I was glad to finally find WestOz.

Aloha from Paradise,

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