Longer than Necessary -- 5/8/04
Date: May 8, 2004
Words: Figured that there would be no swell so I decided to bust out the tanker. Got there and it was chest-high and glassy. Had some fun rides in the dark with the waves all to myself. Should've brought the shortboard.
Solitude never lasts though. Crowd got pretty thick, pretty fast. I didn't want to inadvertently hog the waves, so I decided to move over to the next, inferior peak. Found it to be actually a little better than it usually is. Missed some primo sets, but such is life. Eventually, a half dozen found their way over to the peak so I again go a bit flustered.
By then I had gotten my share so I decided to head through the original lineup. Found it to be packed with a quite aggressive crowd. I was fortunate to luck into a couple of inside double-ups that made my day.
Might've overextended my session, but sometimes it's OK to go longer than necessary.
Aloha from Paradise,