Longer than Necessary -- 5/8/04

It was actually a decent day in Town

Date: May 8, 2004
Time: 0500 -- 0845
Spot(s): dhlh
Conditions: Dead calm turning light onshore; little more crowded than usual
Swell: On and off consistency, straight south
Surf: 2-4'+ Haw'n

Words: Figured that there would be no swell so I decided to bust out the tanker. Got there and it was chest-high and glassy. Had some fun rides in the dark with the waves all to myself. Should've brought the shortboard.

Solitude never lasts though. Crowd got pretty thick, pretty fast. I didn't want to inadvertently hog the waves, so I decided to move over to the next, inferior peak. Found it to be actually a little better than it usually is. Missed some primo sets, but such is life. Eventually, a half dozen found their way over to the peak so I again go a bit flustered.

By then I had gotten my share so I decided to head through the original lineup. Found it to be packed with a quite aggressive crowd. I was fortunate to luck into a couple of inside double-ups that made my day.

Might've overextended my session, but sometimes it's OK to go longer than necessary.

Aloha from Paradise,