Old Friends -- 7/9/04
Date: July 9, 2004
Words: Had to have the car serviced, so decided to hit the water for a few hours. Walked to Kewalos where there were remnants of a dying southerly swell. Was stoked to find the lineup fairly empty.
Got a few fun ones, including one nice right that lined up from the southwest. However, I came to the firm realization that I just cannot get on the rail and commit to a hard turn. Need to work on that.
Saw some old friends including: Len Barrow who had just won the masters division at the USSF Nationals, Kainoa McGee who is surfing Pipe more and more, Donald Fancher who is my daughter's classmate's dad, and this guy from Puerto Rico who told me how La Chatarra got its name (trash put on the beach by locals to protect their houses from flooding).
When the really good locals came out, I couldn't get a wave. Struggled on an inside one and went in to find my surfmobile ready to go. Fun go-out at Kewalos.
Aloha from Paradise,