SURF OBSERVATIONSBioluminescence and Hierarchy in SD -- 7/20/04 Date: July 20, 2004
Words: Went to San Diego for another work class. Of course I had to try and partake in the surf action. Visited Tom Tweed, my alt.surfing friend, and borrowed a 7' 10" fun board from him. Before my class on Monday morning, I jumped in the water to catch the rising swell. Realized that I had forgotten my webbed gloves in Hawaii. Oh well, maybe it was an opportunity to try surfing without them. Got in the water at 0500, with some light starting to fill into the slightly overcast sky. Water was a balmy 70 degrees, but I still chose to wear my fullsuit. Swell was just starting to show with some inconsistent waves just a bit overhead. Tripped out on the slight bioluminescence as I moved the water in the dark. Surf was fun and overhead with super-glassy conditions. Hooked up with BA who's always good for a laugh. Board felt like a boat but got into a lot of waves. Had to rush off real early to make sure I had enough time for a shower and the drive in to class. After class, I decided to give it a go again. Surf was a little bigger, but there were a lot more people on it. Nothing spectacular about the session. I did catch some good rides and started turning the board better. The level of surfing at W/S is pretty good. So neat seeing the hierarchy of surfers strung through the lineup, as if each group is told where they are allowed to surf. The old guys and longboarders are at the outside peak, the shortboarders are working the middle bowl, and some bodyboarders are sprinkled from the middle into the two shorebreak areas. Where do I stand in the hierarchy? Well, let's just say I bounced all over the place.
Aloha from Paradise, 
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