Buddy at RRs

Date: August 25, 2004
Time: 1130 -- 1400
Spot(s): Gas Chambers, Rocky Rights
Conditions: Medium winds, medium crowd
Swell: Adequate wnw swell
Surf: 2-4' Haw'n

Words: A low formed nice and strong in the northwest Pacific, very unusual for August. I wasn't complaining. I had already taken leave earlier--stoked that it coincided with the swell.

Around the coast, it was a hit and miss proposition. Early season swells are always a little funky, with sandbars and beaches that need grooming. But I could deal with it--the size was back!

Started off at Gas Chambers where there seemed to be the most size (though the form left much to be desired). Gained a bit of confidence on the takeoffs and negotiated the backwash and weak walls. My slightly pulled hamstring was nagging, but not painful.

Eventually, I decided to venture over to Rocky Rights, where I was stoked to find Buddy just paddling out. It was decidedly smaller there, but lineup up nicer between a few closeouts.

Buddy did his usual carves and tubes and snaps. Didn't lose a step from last winter.

Me, I had a little harder time, taking off late and not committing off the bottom. Still, just being in the power was invigorating.

I think it will take some time, but hopefully I'll get back into the power groove. At least I got a head start in August.

Aloha from Paradise,

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