North Shore in August -- 8/25/04
Date: August 25, 2004
Words: A low formed nice and strong in the northwest Pacific, very unusual for August. I wasn't complaining. I had already taken leave earlier--stoked that it coincided with the swell.
Around the coast, it was a hit and miss proposition. Early season swells are always a little funky, with sandbars and beaches that need grooming. But I could deal with it--the size was back!
Started off at Gas Chambers where there seemed to be the most size (though the form left much to be desired). Gained a bit of confidence on the takeoffs and negotiated the backwash and weak walls. My slightly pulled hamstring was nagging, but not painful.
Eventually, I decided to venture over to Rocky Rights, where I was stoked to find Buddy just paddling out. It was decidedly smaller there, but lineup up nicer between a few closeouts.
Buddy did his usual carves and tubes and snaps. Didn't lose a step from last winter.
Me, I had a little harder time, taking off late and not committing off the bottom. Still, just being in the power was invigorating.
I think it will take some time, but hopefully I'll get back into the power groove. At least I got a head start in August.
Aloha from Paradise,