The Surfster and the Crowd -- 10/9/04

There were a few, but it was dominated by tankers

Date: October 9, 2004
Time: 0600--0900
Spot(s): Ehukai, Laniakea
Conditions: Mostly light trades, from zero crowd to insanity
Swell: Did not show
Surf: 1-3' Haw'n

Words: Road Runner Hawaii was running a promotion, giving away Surfster inflatable bodyboards. They were being touted as one of the fastest boards in the water. I just had give them a try. Thankfully, my friend Ed at Road Runner had a sample one that he was willing to lend me.

The surf was supposed to rise on Saturday morn, so I asked permission from the boss (wife) that I would go then. Unfortunately, the swell did not materialize, leaving nothing to work with.

Fortunately, I had the Surfster in the car, so I decided to bust it out before daylight (to hide myself from potential embarrassment). Went out at Ehukai which had 1-2' rollers coming through.

First time duckdiving the board, it just collapsed and folded in half. I was just cracking up to myself.

The "board" was just too flexible for me. I was thinking that it could work like an inflatable surf mat, but I just couldn't get it going. I think one possible future of surf craft is a flexible board that could better conform to wave contours, stiffening on demand. But the surfster is not going to be it.

Gave up after an hour in search of better surf and a better ride.

Drove to Laniakea, where there literally were over 80 people in the lineup, riding the smallish surf. Sigh. With no real other alternative, I reluctantly joined the fray.

Longboarders were totally dominating the lineup, catching the soft waves way earlier than everyone else. It was a study in frustration, as I could not get a decent wave to ride. Enjoyed the exercise, but was tired of watching others reap the rewards, so I bailed after a couple of hours.

Aloha from Paradise,