Getting Pipe -- 12/19/04
Date: December 19, 2004
Words: Got to Pipe early and was the first to paddle out on my sponge in the darkness. Always sketchy positioning myself with just a few houselights as references. The bodyboarding contingent came out in force soon after, crowding the lineup.
Started out slow, catching some smaller ones at first. However, I eventually lucked into a really nice one: sat deep and caught one that peaked more towards OTW, came down just as a wedge reared ahead of me, got a really deep barrel, came out through a little bit of drizzle with my head bowed in respect. Stoked that a couple of friends actually saw the wave from shore and later complimented me.
As the crowd increased and the sunrise came, I shifted more from riding to shooting. Tamayo got a sweet tube that I shot too early. Afterwards, he pulled in, steering his way through the barrel. Showed him the shot on the camera and he was pretty stoked that we could see it right in the water.
Eventually got chased out by the water patrol just before the Pipeline Masters 8 AM start and mingled around the contest for a while. However, I still had some time and wanted to catch a few more elsewhere.
Headed over to the downside once again and cruised several lineups. Winds were virtually nonexistent, but the surf was a little soft and all over the place. Still made the most of it and had some fun.
At least I got a few at Pipe this time.
Aloha from Paradise,