SURF OBSERVATIONS
Donkey -- 1/13/05


Such a different ambiance from Hawaii

Date: January 13, 2005
Time: 0630--0700, 1300--1430
Spot(s): LJS, W/S
Conditions: Glassy/Slight onshore
Swell: Small northwest
Surf: 1-3' California scale

Words: Caught some small LJS and W/S today. Water was just getting cleaner from the heavy rains that plagued the West Coast. Nice getting out with the dawn patrol crowd at LJS. Pretty relaxing lineup. Rented a 7'2" egg that worked pretty good.

In the afternoon, went to W/S where there was a tight crew rotating in the small surf. I cautiously hung off the side and to the inside, picking off a few that swung to the north. Got "brayed" at a few times by the locals who I think didn't appreciate my presence. However, I persisted and gained their acceptance with my stellar wipeout skills.

When returning the board, I lucked (or had the misfortune) of seeing BA at Mitch's. The dude never fails to make me laugh with his stories and attitude. He wanted to go at it with the perpetrators at W/S, but I told him my donkey title was well-deserved. Can't wait to get back out there, especially if there's more juice in the lineup.

Aloha from Paradise,
stickman


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