Kauai State of Mind -- 2/12,13/05
Date: February 12, 13, 2005
Words: Headed home for another family reunion. Took some time out for a couple of sessions.
First one was out north. Knew that the area would be more sheltered from the winds. This spot had a series of sandbars that had lots of soft spots. Didn't have enough time to do the long paddles to the outer reefs, so I settled.
Funny thing was this one surfer came by and kind of attempted to vibe me. He challenged me that I was "blocking" him (which I kind of was, but that's what you do sometimes in a lineup). Had to call him out, and we had an extremely small-kine showdown with my old maturity vs. his young brashness. No doubt that he killed it surfing, while I kooked it. But I was able to hold my ground.
Such is the silliness that is surfing.
The next day, I headed west and caught some junky waves on a wide open beach at some reef/sandbar. Shared it with a couple surfers, without incident. Road was incredibally complicate.
It is pretty obvious that Kauai is growing up. Lots of new people all around, and lineups definitely are more crowded. But it is still a sweet environment to grow up (and surf, of course).
Aloha from Paradise,