A Memorable Day -- 3/4/05
Date: March 4, 2005
Words: Bodyboarded in the morning at Pipe and Backdoor. Waves were really nice. In fact, I snagged my wave of the winter so far. Couple-three feet overhead on the takeoff. After setting my rail the wave looked like it would shut down the line, so I propped myself up and settled in for the closeout. However, after riding in the tube for a while, the wave backed off a bit, enough for me to squirt out the end. Another section pitched ahead of me, but by that time, I had enough speed to backdoor that little section and make it out of the second tube. Kicked out the back as the wave closed out in elation.
Caught a few more fun ones, but the lineup got crowded fairly quickly. Eventually, a couple of young hotshot surfers came out and started snagging all the good sets (one looked like Meha Balmores, but I wasn't sure). I knew it was time to go.
Found out where Buddy was and hooked up with him at Spot #2. Wave was a fun little wave that was breaking as good as Buddy had ever seen. For me, it was my first time there and I was drooling at the lay of the land.
Crowd was mellow and cool, and we got our share of waves. I was using my "fun gun" which ended up being perfect for the firm offshore blind takeoffs. The lefts were better with a really neat inside bowl which I never really nailed (although Buddy got fully shacked several times).
I did get some really long ones, including my last which i was lucky enough to make all the way.What a memorable day!
Aloha from Paradise,