Moments -- 4/24/05

Me taking a moment, Danny Black photo

Date: April 24, 2005
Time: 0545--0815, 0830--1000
Spot(s): RR's, OTW
Conditions: Clean and fun, mostly offshore
Swell: Small WNW pulse
Surf: 2-3' Haw'n

Words: Had a dual session again. Went out with the moonlight at RR's and had some fun in the weak swell on my shortboard. Swell wasn't the same size as the midweek swell, but for the late-season, we're taking whatever we can get.

I was flailing for the most part, but lucked into a few nuggets. One in particular stood out. Took off (late) on a head-high set, after the bottom turn, had to shuffle my feet back to the proper spot, did my version of a "roundhouse" where the tail slid out all of 2 centimeters. That moment felt so sweet! Stabilized the tail and set up for this cute pocket and posed at the front door of the veranda, just ahead of the tube.

Went in early, chasing some bodyboarding friends and found them at OTW. Didn't realize it at the time, but they were holding a very low-key, "underground" contest. Didn't disrupt the lineup at all really.

After the howzits, I eagerly jumped in and sat in some pockets. These kids are pretty amazing with what they can do on a bodyboard nowadays. I was in awe.

But the old guy did manage to get a moment of glory also. Sneaked into a set wave that lined up perfectly. Had to yell off a surfer who was contemplating a takeoff down the line. Came up to the lip a little later than I'd prefer, but punched a cute air. Landings are always precarious nowadays, but I managed a soft one this time.

After a few more, I went in, all happy again. Stoked that my friend Danny Black caught my moment. Heard that Zach may even have it on video. Looking forward to seeing my kooky style.

Shot a few pics from Ehukai with a borrowed Nikon D100 camera before hightailing it back to the family.


Aloha from Paradise,