Sick -- 4/29/05

Me in the pit duckdiving, Photo by

Date: April 29, 2005
Time: 0745--1000
Spot(s): PL/BD
Conditions: Incredibly glassy and fun
Swell: Solid NNW
Surf: 4-6'+ Haw'n

Words: Blazed up to the North Shore to find it with perfect conditions. Jumped into the rip and Pipe and was all ready to take pictures on the way out when I noticed that the camera display was blooming out into a blank screen. What the? All the tapping and resetting of settings couldn't fix it. So sick. Missed an incredible session.

However, I at least got a chance to focus on the riding. There already was an appreciable crowd, but it was pretty cool with the more laid back late-season crew out. So if you were in the right place, you were pretty much ensured to have it to yourself.

My session was so fun! The one standout wave was a right at Backdoor. I usually sit wide to the southwest, but for some reason, I found myself right in "the spot" at the peak. Took off on a wave that my friends said had no back, and gingerly took a wide bottom turn with my bodyboard. Not a problem because the lip pitched so far out, I had plenty of room to spare. Set up a line and got a deep one, came out, got covered again, then came out clean. Wave of the winter! Tamega called that wave a "sick one."

On a left I took off deep, but as I was slotted in the almond eye, I saw a girl bodyboarder taking off on the shoulder. Traveled a long way, but just barely couldn't make it out. She was apologetic afterwards, but everything was cool. After my good BD tube, everything was fine.

Had a bunch of great rides in the solid surf. Ended up coming in real early, but felt so satisfied with what I caught. I guess "sick" can go both ways.

This is what my camera put out--so sick

Aloha from Paradise,