My Turn -- 9/16/05
Date: Sep 16, 2005
Words: Finally decided to have my turn in the water. Despite the competitive lineup, decided to jump in at Bowls. Surf was still pretty fun. It seemed like the last couple of days had surfed a lot of people out, since the lineup was surprisingly mellow.
The wave is so neat, and the regulars make it look easy. But it can be tricky.
Lucked into a beauty that made me grin from ear to ear. Caught another, smaller one, that I couldn't come out of, but was travelling far in the shack. Stoked to finally have my turn.
Aloha from Paradise,