Me, bailing in the barrel

Date: Oct 23, 2005
Time: 0600--0900
Spot(s): 3Ds
Conditions: Clean at dawn with firm offshores
Swell: Huge north, small wrap
Surf: 2-3+' Haw'n

Words: Pussied out on taking on huge North Shore. Decided instead to chance the Westside wrap and hope for a special spot to light up. Didn't quite pan out.

However, that's not to say we didn't have fun. Place is like an arena and we were the first out. Had it to ourselves while people pondered the conditions.

The spot is not one to toy with, even in small conditions. It was especially backwashy, with a very very dangerous reef fronting the lineup. But that bit of danger compensated for the lack of size.

Was bummed out to find out from Brian Pacheco that a surfer whom I saw get injured out here had lost his eye. We should be thankful for what we have.

Aloha from Paradise,

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