Freefall -- 1/8/06

Brian stole my wave!

Date: January 8, 2006
Time: 0630--1000
Spot(s): PL/BD, Noll's Reef
Conditions: Light offshores
Swell: Rising WNW
Surf: 4-8' Haw'n

Words: Pipe was sponged out as bodyboarders from around the world prepared for the waiting period of the contest the next day. I didn't do well at all (trend here), but had an absolutely spectacular diving wipeout. Called off Brian Wise on a deep one at Pipe. I just had to go. Got launched on the takeoff just staring at the clear water and gnarly reef below. Came up fine. Brian asked later if it was a bad wipeout or a good wipeout--I told him it was a good one.

Later, I met up with Buddy at Noll's Reef. Although I did get a few nuggets, the surf continued to rise and I got caught big time in the rip (we saw maybe a half dozen people just sucked down the coastline). Must've been in it for maybe 45 minutes and could not make any headway. Darted in on a short lull and caught a smallish one in.

Aloha from Paradise,