Date: November 26, 2006
Words: Was playing tourist back home on Kauai, so couldn't get wet on the official WSD Fall 06 (11/25/06). Instead, when I got back to Oahu I stole away from the family for a couple of hours and hit a dwindling NW swell on the North Shore.
First one to swim out in the dark at Pipeline/Backdoor on the bodyboard. Maybe too much turkey, maybe too much paddling/hiking up the Wailua River. In any case, I felt out of sych and kooked it big time.
Surf was a clean 3-4'+ Hawaiian scale with light-no SE (offshore) winds and the rights of Backdoor being better. Had one very bad wipeout, digging a rail in the tube and getting thrown over the falls--thankfully, I had a soft landing.
Crowd quickly got thick, so I swapped the sponge for the camera and swam back out, all still before sunrise. Snapped a few, and made it home by 8:20 AM.
Aloha from Paradise,