Kooking BD -- 11/26/06

Got lucky on this shot

Date: November 26, 2006
Time: 0600--0745
Spot(s): Pastures
Conditions: Pristine
Swell: NW swell
Surf: 3-4' Haw'n

Words: Was playing tourist back home on Kauai, so couldn't get wet on the official WSD Fall 06 (11/25/06). Instead, when I got back to Oahu I stole away from the family for a couple of hours and hit a dwindling NW swell on the North Shore.

First one to swim out in the dark at Pipeline/Backdoor on the bodyboard. Maybe too much turkey, maybe too much paddling/hiking up the Wailua River. In any case, I felt out of sych and kooked it big time.

Surf was a clean 3-4'+ Hawaiian scale with light-no SE (offshore) winds and the rights of Backdoor being better. Had one very bad wipeout, digging a rail in the tube and getting thrown over the falls--thankfully, I had a soft landing.

Crowd quickly got thick, so I swapped the sponge for the camera and swam back out, all still before sunrise. Snapped a few, and made it home by 8:20 AM.

Aloha from Paradise,