Date: December 7, 2006
Words: Pipe at 6 AM. Tossing, swirling winds, Third Reef cresting. Pass. Went to "Inside Outside PPs". Very crossed up swells there. Got a few small peaks on the sponge before I got mauled by a set--pushed me right near the rocks. Caught a long (small) one in--mostly whitewater ride. Rinsed off by the pavilion near the homeless folks. Got to work in decent time. Grinning.
Aloha from Paradise,