Date: May 25, 2007
Words: Day off; car being fixed; might as well kill time and surf. Jumped out at Panics to a small south swell. Very overcast and cloudy with a few passing showers. Otherwise, just another s#!tty day in paradise,
Because of the smallish surf, I decided I had to take the opportunity to get some exercise. Made it a goal to paddle from Panics to Bowls and back, a pretty decent swim. Figured I'd try and surf as many spots along the way as I could.
Kewalos was fun, but pushy on the lefts as usual. I like Rennex rights. Straight Outs wasn't so good. Caught a fun left at Marineland. Big Rights wasn't really showing. Concessions was crowded with average surfers (like me!). Courts was crowded with tankers (met friends Cameron and Clyde there). Baby Haleiwa was soft. Bamburas wasn't really happening. Then there was Ala Moana Bowls. Typical Bowls. Some kind of swell focusing spot, bigger than everywhere else. Crowded, as usual.
Immediately saw champion longboarder Dino Miranda on a sweet one (on a shortboard). Had to yell at him, "Where's your longboard!?!" Talked story with Dino about his recent trip to France for the longboard world championships. (It is nice asserting yourself as a friend of the top dog at any given spot--gave me a little bit of status; at least until my lousy riding gave me away.)
Hit the wall as I was paddling back in front of Magic Island. Just got super-tired. But I set a goal and kept stroking. By the time I reached Kewalos again, I was exhausted.
Thankfully, I had a little bit left in the tank to catch a few more. Got one of my better rides of the day on a bowling Kewalos right. Followed it up with a long, whitewater ride to the left, then made the final paddle to the Panics stairway.
Good upper body workout. I gotta bodyboard next time though to work the legs. Hope the swells persist.
Aloha from Paradise,