Date: May 28, 2007
Words: Rode my fish the past couple of days and felt like I'd been neglecting my legs and gluts from a proper workout. Decided to do a little bodyboarding at Sandys for a short sesh.
Surf started off real small, with a weak tradewind swell coming in. However, as the morning progressed, it did get better, with some decent waves peaking in.
As planned, I paddled around between Half Point and Gas Chambers, catching a few here and there as I went around. Got a couple of good closeout barrels, especially at Chambers. Also had a hard landing on my shoulder on a relatively tiny wave--reminder that we are never in total control.
Legs got the required workout; I got a bit of stoke. Happy Memorial Day all.
Aloha from Paradise,