Insane -- 11/12/07

Me at Insanities, Danny Black photo

Date: November 12, 2007
Time: 0600 -- 1000
Spot(s): BD/PL
Conditions: Clean and sunny
Swell: Small NW swell
Surf: 3-4' Haw'n

Words: Jumped in with the fish at 0600 to shoulder-high beach park. Immediately realized that my backwashy sections were too funky for my meager standup skills. To top it off, my little pocket camera's battery went into the red. Sucked!

Swapped out the board for the camera and was stoked to enjoy sunny, no-wind conditions. Got some fun shots before the camera suddenly stopped shooting. I was using only a 2 gig card and shot half of it on my daughter the day before. S#!t! Saw my friend on the beach so he watched my gear while I went to get my sponge.

New swell seemed to be filling in a bit, and the winds stayed light enough to still be somewhat glassy. After a couple of small test-waves, I ventured over to "Crazies" and immediately dialed into a really round, long set wave. So stoked! Followed it up with a few fun ones, but that wave made my day.

After blowing it on the fish, running out of battery on one cam, and running out of memory on another, I thought the session was cursed. But maybe if all these things didn't happened, I wouldn't have had the opportunity to catch my best wave (so far) of the winter.

Fate, destiny or just dumb luck. Whatever it was, I'll take it.


Aloha from Paradise,