Dawned it once again on Saturday morning. There were conflicting forecasts in the media: from one-to-three to four-to-eight. Buoys were still going at 8 feet, 13 seconds, so didn't know what to expect.
In the darkness, I could tell that Ehukai had changed since the last time I was there (two weeks ago). That mega-swell must've did a number on the sand, because there was a pronounced sandbar in the water. The beach itself seemed a whole lot shorter.
I paddled out at Backdoor and caught a few small ones. The swell was definitely a northerly one, with Mini-Pipeline missing it all. Once it started getting lighted, I could see that Ehukai and Gums were getting a better swell than Pipe/Backdoor, so I paddled over to the right.
Conditions were excellent, with an extremely light southeasterly breeze. Although it was a bit patchy, the sun peeked through the morning gloom. The waves were ultra-glassy--like a California morn. Only difference was that the water temperature was 74 degrees.
Personally, I didn't have any outstanding rides. I did try a backflip, actually landing it, but I couldn't do the 180 to turn it around. How do the kids do that!
Actually, I did have some success playing around in the drop-knee position. In my nearly 18 years bodyboarding, I never focused on this way of riding. On Saturday, I actually felt comfortable doing it.
Have you ever had that "Eureka" moment, when things just click? In my case, I felt comfortable in trim and on my rail. Must've been because it was so glassy. It's a good feeling when you're grooving with the elements.
The forecast looks bleak for the next few days. Hope the Triple Crown gets more waves. Pray for surf!
Aloha from Paradise,
Neal "Sponge" Miyake