Surfed inside-inside Pipe once again (on Saturday).
It was one-to-three feet and choppy, with sideshore winds gusting to 30 mph, rain squalls, and overcast skies. Lousy conditions equated to smaller crowds--finally!
Even though the surf was extremely bad by North Shore standards, I still had a great time, catching lots of waves and talking story with a bunch of people.
An acquaintance of mine (I'll call him Cherub) was out surfing, and we got into razzing and egging each other on. Cherub's like me--he's not the most gifted of wave riders, but he's out there, good or bad.
Met another South African bodyboarder, I think named Dan. There's a lot of them who rip--I guess people are a product of their environment. I've got to get down there sometime. Shoulda asked him about apartheid.
Saw my friend Liz Arlen, a professional bodyboarder from Maui. She's in town for the Women's contest at Pipe in a week. She was born without one leg, but doesn't let that interfere with her love for the ocean. Liz just hops to the shoreline with her crutches, jumps in with one fin, and rips--even at big Pipe. She's truly an inspiration.
Finally, saw my friend who's an ASP judge (who I'll call Junie). Junie started judging in the amateur ranks, and eventually realized his dream of judging on the world tour. He said it is both exciting and tiring. Junie said this last season was insane, with good waves at great venues, and a come-from-behind victory by Slater. What a life!
I didn't catch any good rides worth mentioning. It was a fun, but not memorable. Sometimes just talking story with friends makes the session.
Aloha from Paradise,