Same call: Ehukai at dawn. Surf was only one-to-three, but that didn't matter. I'm leaving for the East Coast for a while. Had to get wet one last time before freezing my butt.
Went out at Pipe, but it just wasn't catching the better waves. Paddled over to OTW and got some good ones there.
Talked story for a little while with Akila Aipa. He and his father's shaping business has been doing ok, but he hasn't been surfing as often as he'd like.
I just was reading the latest ish of Surfing on the head just before I drove out. In it, I was marveling at the beautiful wave Akila caught in Chile. He said that it was a great wave; a cross between Sunset and Haleiwa. Ah, the life of a pro surfer.
Akila was getting some sick pits (even though it was only three feet) at OTW, so I decided to sit a little deeper than him.
I was thinking about Mike Stewart's win in the Morey contest--how he has perfect position and trim.
All of a sudden, a wave swung wide from Backdoor, and it had my name all over it. I angled my takeoff, then pulled in high. Deep barrel, then daylight! Signed it off with a dopey cutback. Maybe I should think about Stewart more when I surf.
The women bodyboarders will get it on soon, with the waiting period for their Pipe contest starting tomorrow. As for myself, I'm outta here. Got my last blast. Will give you guys a surf report of the Outer Banks if I ever get there. Hope my 3 mil is enough.
Aloha from Paradise,
Neal "Sponge" Miyake