Finally got my brand-spanking new surfboard. It's a cherry 6' 10" Russ K. fun-board (20 in. wide). Couldn't wait to try it out.
That's not to say I'm giving up bodyboarding. On the contrary, bodyboarding will always be my first love, especially since I am a better bodyboarder than I am a surfer. Anyway, surfing is surfing, right?
The weekend was forecast to get a double whammy of surf, with the north coming up Friday eve and the south getting an unseasonable swell on Saturday. The northwest buoy is out of service right now, so couldn't get an idea of just how big it was going to be. It was fifteen feet on Friday, so the north would still be big. The south was iffy, so I decided that the west side would be the call.
Dawn-patrolled it to Makaha and found five footers rolling in, with the odd six footer coming off the point. The direction was a little weird because the inside didn't line up very well--just a mushy peeler. The peak and point were really nice, though.
Stroked out by myself and felt very odd surfing a shortboard (a shorter board), rather than a tank or mini. Still couldn't duck dive very well, though.
The session was not very memorable, with a lot of wipeouts and getting caught inside. The board felt squirrely underfoot, but was very responsive when I was planted just right.
Just one memorable ride. I stroked in late on a four-to-five footer, and took off just as it pitched. I thought for sure I was going to do the Pearl Jam. The next instant, I was riding on the face (the board must have a good entry rocker, whatever that means). Had to kick out before the oncoming section, but the lip clipped my legs and I did an outstretched somersault over the back. Even a *lousy* ride can get me stoked.
Saw dfrick, the hardcore bodysurfer, charging the point again. That's a looong swim from shore. Check him out on my page under photos/speedos (http://www.ohana.com/hisurfad/). He goes big.
Another person that inspired was this woman in her late forties, all sun-protected with lycra. She continuously took off on solid four footers (and bigger) backside and turned in the hook. Nothing fancy; just going for it and having fun.
I paddled in after three hours with aching shoulders and a sore knee (from dipping so much).
The south swell was already a day late, so it should be showing on Sunday morn. I asked my wife for a couple hours (don't call me pw), and I dawned it again.
Checking out Barber's Point, I was greeted to one foot dribble. Decided to truck it to Tracks and check the west wrap. It was going off! It was about four feet, with no one out. I quickly paddled out and got some good rights.
When the crowd started building, I paddled over to the Sand Dunes side to be alone with my thoughts (and the waves on the next peak). After chasing and dodging a few sets, I managed to hook into a good one, one of those down the line rides where the wall sets up--nice.
Caught another one that bowled up in front of me. For one shining moment, my frame of view was this wedging wall with the lip throwing over me. But the next instant, I found myself being thrown backwards in a semi-fetal position over the falls, the lip embracing my chest. I better practice more before I pull in.
I talked story with a local who surfed the day before. Said it was one of the best sessions he had out there. This guy was using what he called his "reef board": it was missing the last skeg and was partially split down the middle. "Bottom turn and trim" was his motto.
Looking down at my board, I came to the realization that it doesn't have to be a brand new board. The stoke is the same.
We shared the peak a while longer, before I paddled in. Got home by eight. What a way to start the day.
Aloha from Paradise,