Planned a mid-week surf with some of my coworkers. They both used to surf a lot, but only go sporadically nowadays. We always talk about going together, but this time we made it happen.
On Thursday (3/21), the Country was still eight feet, so we decided to head to the west side. They are both goofyfooters, so we ended up at Maile Point, a long left that runs alongside a reef.
They both had boards that I once owned. Ushi has an 8' Surfing Hawaii minitank (by Jay Richardson) that is at least twelve years old, and Jimmy has a 7' 10" Hawaiian Blades mini. Ushi forgot his leash, but managed to fashion one out of some string he found in Jimmy's car--classic.
Conditions were pretty marginal, but the NW swell wrap seemed to be hanging in, with shoulder high mushburgers.
Ushi was definitely the best surfer out of the three amigos. He has a very, shall we say, casual style. No hand-jiving or board wiggling--just bottom turn and trim. His big move is a switch stance, which he does with a Lopez-like cool.
Another thing about Ushi is his knack for meeting people. He is very friendly in the water, and likes to talk story with anyone willing to lend an ear. He also has this look that pretty much makes him look like a local, no matter where he is.
Jimmy has a similar surfing style--catch the wave and just ride. I think he's a little more apprehensive when it comes to surfing near a reef, because of a bad wipeout he had when he was a kid. Surfing at Big Rights, he got pulled over the falls and dragged on the reef. Just one bad experience can do that to you.
As for myself, well, just call me the backside kook. I felt pretty awkward going left. Couldn't lean into any good bottom turns.
We all caught some decent ones. Stayed out until well after sunset, then paddled in.
I enjoy surfing alone, but it's nice to share the experience with a bro. Already looking forward to the next outing. Next time it'll be a right.
Aloha from Paradise,
P.S. The North Shore has been holding steady at about ten feet throughout the weekend. It was a little windy and chilly, but fairly sunny. Should taper down as the week progresses. Winter's winding down, but the waves are still pretty good.