Same ol' same old. Saturday (4/20/96), first light, Ehukai Beach Park.
Surf was even smaller than last week--only one-to-two feet. There was a solid five foot swell on Thursday, but alas...
The waves were actually quite good, with nice peaks throwing these little barrels. The early am solitude and glass made my sesh.
I pulled out my 6' 10" fun board to play in the small stuff. It was perfect for this size wave. My paddling and surfing, however, wasn't too keen.
I actually started feeling better about turning the board--it doesn't feel squirrely any more underfoot. However, my backside surfing left much to be desired. Overall, I got pitched more times than I caught good rides.
My best wave was this right that hooked in from the north. Got into it early and the wall pitched just ahead of me. I was in the barrel! Did one little pump and tucked to avoid the lip. The tube pinched a bit, and the wave hit the small of my back. By instinct, I bailed (too much shorebreak sponging) just as the tube opened up. I found myself belly-flopping right out of the tube. Must've looked hilarious, but it still felt damned good.
I can hold my own at bodyboarding, but put me on a surfboard and I'm the ultimate kook. But I don't care. By doing this I can feel what it's like to start all over again. Sometimes getting a fresh perspective can renew the stoke.
Aloha from Paradise,
P.S. My wife asked me when I'm going to start surfing Town. Real soon, my dear, real soon.