HI Surf Advisory


Last Gasp -- 5/4/96

A storm front passed above the islands through the week. On Friday, the North Shore was forecast to be in the eight-to-twelve foot range out of the NNE... I don't think so. The surf did rise to five feet, but it was bumpy with onshores.

Dawn patrolled it again on Saturday, hoping for some of the remnants. The conditions were excellent, with dead calm winds and scattered clouds. However, the waves were gone along with the funky weather.

Paddled out by myself at Inside-Inside-Pipeline/Backdoor. It's such a different spot from when it's six-to-eight, that I should call it something else--maybe Pipette. Since it was only one-to-two, I used my fun-board.

A friend from work was staying on the North Shore over the weekend and he was just learning how to bodyboard. We were supposed to meet in the lineup, but there was no sign of him. Most people don't wake up early to catch waves (fine by me).

Caught some fun ones, but nothing to write home about. My neck was really bothering me from the wipeout I took four weeks ago. Any good chiropractors out there?

The vibe in the lineup was so different from mid-winter. Waves were small, and the crowds were gone, so people were actually polite! What a novel concept.

Got to talking to this guy from Durban. We talked about all the shark nets around the bathing beaches. Another local starting telling the South African about a tiger shark attack. The shark breached the water, and its splashdown sucked both surfer and board underwater. Don't know if he was tossing the bull or not, but it was an ominous thought.

I still want to check out (the new) South Africa one day.

After the sesh, I went to visit my friend (they were staying two doors down from Lopez's house). He said that the day before was messy, but a lot bigger, and that he liked the bodyboard I scored for him. He was looking forward to going out later on. It's always nice to see enthusiasm in someone who is just getting into the sport.

Haven't heard much about that south swell that's forecast to come in this weekend. Early indications seemed like it was going to be a biggie, but I'm not so sure now.

Ever since I learned about it ten years ago, there has been a decent (four foot Hawaiian, at least) swell withing a week or two of Mother's Day. I guess this is going to be the fabled Mother's Day south swell. This is a good way to remember your mom.

The pros are in town for the Red Dog WRV Pro, a two-star WQS event. They should score some decent Kuhio Beach (Waikiki) over the weekend. After that is the Town and Country Pro at Ala Moana Bowls.

I better get a longboard--summer's here.

Aloha from Paradise,

P.S. My friend came to work Monday with a scrape on his forehead. Apparently, the waves got a little bigger on Sunday, and he managed a faceplant on the reef. But, he's still looking forward to his next sesh. Nothing like a 27 year old grom.

<-- Back to Swell Page