Hafa Adai! (the Chamorro version of Aloha)
Just got back from Guam. It was warm, humid and small (surf-wise) with excellent diving. Missed an epic swell by one week. Didn't get too much surf while I was there, but the place has so much potential. If anyone goes out there, I'd highly recommend the Boat Basin, both the Right Side and the Left Side, and Magundas. Will write an article for BIM (Bodyboarder International Magazine) in a few months with more info and pics.
The same swell that went through Guam hit Hawaii over the Memorial Day weekend. I heard it was clean at three-to-five feet (and everyone knows Hawaiians have big feet!). I must've literally flew over the swell on my way out there.
On Saturday (6/1/96), I dawned it to Sandy Beach. I chose Sandys for two reasons: it's usually one of the most consistent summertime spots (along with Diamond Head, Bowls and Makapuu) and I'm entering a contest there next week and wanted to "practice."
I'm not ashamed to say that I used to be the full-on amateur contest rider. With rising responsibilities, I've backed off and do only a couple of events a year. But still, the fire of competition burns inside.
It can really stifle the creative aspect of surfing when your concerned with catching four solid rides to the beach, packing in as many (mostly weak) maneuvers as you can, pleasing the judges, worrying about the time, trying to beat your competition. However, like all organized sports, it forces people to focus on a goal--and that is winning.
Competitive surfing is really just a microcosm of the real world, especially the business world. If you know how to work the system, you can get ahead in life. Sometimes just a little luck and good timing can separate great success from failure. And nice guys always finish last.
Anyway, it was really nice to be back in home waters. I've been fortunate enough to do a lot of travelling, and it has made me appreciate things a lot more. Small surf doesn't phase me (it was only one-to-two feet) because I know the rest of the world is usually content with much smaller surf. We get a bit spoiled here sometimes.
The parking lot was covered with sand. Did the waves get that big last weekend? I'll have to ask around.
To me, Half Point is one of the most challenging waves on the south, with a strange, wedgy takeoff, a tough and highly skilled local crew, (sometimes) strong rip currents and an extremely sharp, exposed reef. Half Point was breaking really weird that day, sectioning off poorly, so I didn't last long out there.
However, Full-Point was really nice, albiet a bit inconsistent, with long mushy lefts and short, wedgy rights. No exceptional waves were caught, just a few nice rides, capped with a rollo here and there.
The Aloha State Games Bodyboarding division will go off this coming Saturday, probably at Half Point. I got second in the old man's division last year and am gunning for first. Am I ready? Well, I've been in better shape. I just hope there's waves. Wish me luck.
Aloha from Paradise,
P.S. My site won a SurfSite Hang-5 award. I'm truly stoked!