HI Surf Advisory


Good Nature -- 8/4/96

There was a south forecast to hit the islands on the weekend. Had an early morning sesh at Diamond Head on Sunday in hopes of scoring. I didn't.

Walking down the path, I noticed a fair amount of people coming up. Curious. Music seemed to be playing in the distance. When I got to the bottom, lo and behold, there's a full sound system right by the showers with a DJ pumping out tunes to about four dozen kids. Their repetitive music (house, hip-hop???) just broke the silence and serenity of the dawn patrol.

I waded through the crowd and did my stretch routine on the sand, trying to ignore the revelry on the beach. Did my ritual face wetting then board wetting routine before plunking into the (warm) water.

The surf was about shoulder high, with some bigger ones, but there was no sign of the true swell--it was more like windswell.

For the sake of variety, I decided to bring my 6' 10". Good thing I did--the surf was not really conducive to bodyboarding. It was pretty windy and didn't have the power and ocean smoothness that spongers crave.

Met up with my friends JC and BK, who were bodyboarding. We hooted encouragement to each other in the slightly crowded lineup.

A nice sunrise came up between Koko Head and Hanauma (both craters on the east side). Eventually the winds came up to 20 plus mph.

Did my best to do some carves (probably looked like butt-waggling) and lip-hitting (just trying to keep my balance). Had a good time, though. Sometimes doing something your *not* good at is more fun. Improvement and progression feels good and comes easier.

Paddled in after two and a half hours of hoping. The swell never materialized. Despite it all, I had a blast. Playing in Mother Ocean is always rejuvinating.

The mobile disco and kids were long gone. Walking back up the path, I could hear the birds chirping good morning in the wind-swept trees and the drone of the waves coming in. Ahhhh, that's how it should always be.

Aloha from Paradise,

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