There are memorable surfs, there are not so memorable ones. This one was pretty forgettable, to say the least.
Dawned it to Diamond Head once again. The surf rose to four feet on Wednesday, but was completely gone by Saturday. Weekend warrior syndrome strikes again!
There were some shoulder high peaks, but it was quite inconsistent. At least the winds were light, making for some semi-glass at sunrise.
I used my 6' 10" funboard. I want a longboard!!! Every other Townie seems to have a tank these days, making wave-catching really difficult for us mortals.
On this day, my rhythm was totally out of synch with the ocean. Always out of position, side-swells pushing me out of take-off sections, longboarder sitting deeper. Ií'm not blaming outside forces; the problem was internal. Should have checked my biorhythm before I went out. But like I said, weekend warriors have no choice.
Rhythm is so important in surfing. When I used to compete, being in rhythm meant catching all the sets and advancing. Being out of synch meant that you just had a really expensive 15 minute session.
Please doní't think of this as a complaint. During the session, I caught a few little waves and had a couple of good turns. Even a ride with one decent bottom turn can feel really good. The sun was out and the water was warm.
I guess it wasn't too bad after all.
Aloha from Paradise,