HI Surf Advisory


Out of Focus -- 8/25/96

Woke up late (6 am) for my weekend session. Drove down to Diamond Head with low expectations. Got what I expected. Inconsistent chest high surf with ultra light winds. Paddled out on my funboard. Caught some decent rides on the inside of all the longboarders at Cliffs.

I had an unresolved issue gnawing at my brain. Usually surfing takes me away from the real world, as I focus entirely on catching and riding waves. But this time, I could not clear my head. Paddled in after less than an hour.

I saw a couple of interesting things out there worth mentioning:

Before paddling out, I saw this guy with an unusual paipo board. This fiberglass board had a reverse vee hydrofoil on the tail. I saw one similar to this on a bodyboard in Waikiki. I wonder if this'll ever be integrated into mainstream surfboard designs.

After paddling out, I noticed a big setup on the beach. Apparently, there's a windsurfing tour that's currently holding an event here. Unfortunately for them, there's a high pressure area sitting right over the islands, causing very calm winds (and hot weather!). I wonder if the guys on the tour look forward to coming to Hawaii for good conditions, just like the ASP. Beautiful sails littered the beach, with no wind to carry them.

It's really funny how surf size is relative. Just a week ago (and 5,000 miles away), I would've been so stoked over conditions like this in the Panhandle. But now that I'm back in Hawaii, these conditions just doesn't cut it. Two sayings come to mind: "You don't know what you got until it's gone" and "Lucky you ( or rather I) live Hawaii."

Aloha from Paradise,

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