Friday, 11/17/95: Wyland Pro kicked off in six to ten foot Haleiwa. I'm on the sidelines.
Saturday, 11/18/95: Surf report called it six-to-eight. The morning was dead calm with not a cloud in the sky. Must've been insane. Talked to my friend later, and he said it was good, but not great, with everybody and their grandmother out at Pipeline. (He took three hours to catch his first wave!)
Sunday, 11/19/95: For a change, I went in the afternoon and caught an evening sesh. Surf report called it two-to-four, but it was actually one-to-three. The wind was a constant 15 mph, making for some choppy seas.
Paddled out on my bodyboard at Ehukai and I swear I saw Kelly Slater out there. What the hell was he doing out on a dumpy day like that? I heard he lost his seeded slot in the Wyland Pro, and had to surf up from the trials.
Worked my way over to Off-The-Wall, where I managed to manufacture a decent session. Had to bodyboard like I was on a slalom course, with lots of drop-ins and inside "buoys." In my younger days, I used to be more vocal, but I've mellowed with age. Anyway, to stay sane, you have to accept the traffic congestion during this time of year.
Just one memorable wave. A low-profiler came in at OTW with a sideways push from Pipe. I frantically paddled over to the wedging peak, and took off. The wave pitched from the get-go, giving me a nice view from the green room--heard someone hooting from a distance. I started riding too high on the face, so I came off my bodyboard and did that bodysurf drag-stall. Came out of the barrel, then repositioned my body just as the inside section started to pitch again (no tube this time). Signed it off with an el-floppo. It wasn't a pretty ride, but hey, I'm not complaining.
The surf is forecast to jump again on Tuesday or Wednesday. Ahhh, life is good.
Aloha from Paradise,
Neal "Sponge" Miyake