| SURF OBSERVATIONS|
Team uNRaD -- 8/24/97
Whenever I write, I always wonder how other people perceive my stories. I think that sometimes I make my sessions out to be religious experiences that have a profound impact on my existence (actually, on occasion they do). Other times, I think I overexaggerate wave and weather conditions or my own surfing prowess (I know I do this).
Well, this time, I wanted to give my crew the opportunity to describe the session or their favorite wave. This would serve two purposes: (1) by them describing the conditions, it would lend credence to my reports, and (2) since I always talk about how they surf, it'll give them a chance to bash my meager riding skills.
Jerry (aka The Dues Payer)
Russ (aka The Blind Mullet)
Once out I couldn't figure out the break at first, was always too far west. Wasn't scared to go just couldn't catch the damn wave. Then I moved over, got some white water on the first few waves and realized how mellow the left was. Finally I caught a good one, pushed over the lip and shot down the face for a good long one! The Blind Mullet rides again!! After that the rides just improved. I started understanding how to grab the side of board and dig the edge into the face to trim down the line with more control. As it got more crowded I hesitate as I worry about dropping in on people (and vice versa). The first few folks out were cool but it started getting more competitive towards the end. I caught 3-4 rights just to check them out, not as long but also fun and not as much traffic.
I like your (Sponge's) (long)board. It appears to catch waves easy and you rode it well. Much as I'd like to dog you in the writeup aside from the occasional pearl/wipeout I've nothing to bag on. You even got up on Jimmy's short board something I could never do (board too short, me too tall). Like you, I was dead tired afterwards but felt good.
Jimmy (aka "I'd rather be fishing")
The wave formed perfectly and had a nice LONG wall. I angled my board towards the critical section. Like a runaway freight train, I was zigzagging around the surfers as they stroked up the face. Wow, what an experience! Normally, I'm the surfer who's doing the stroking.
On one section of the wave, I rode my board up high on the wave and ran up to the nose to try a hang ten. Well, I got my left toe on the tip of the board but not quite ten. I wonder what that maneuver is called? Hang One? Hang Toe? Humm, maybe I just created a new maneuver.
Riding on the tip of the board as your gliding across the critical section is not so easy. It was too steep so I slid back to the back of the board. I rode the wave all the way to the inside section where I kicked out just before the wave collapsed. WHAT A RIDE!!!!!
Sponge (aka The Legend (in his own mind)
My best wave was an ear-high set that I stroked into pretty early. Going backside, I stepped up to the nose and did my hood ornament pose, alternately riding on the face and the back of the wave. After three warpy sections, the fins broke loose a bit, causing me to slide laterally a bit down the face. Simultaneously, a section bowled up in front of me and took me out. I popped up laughing at myself.
Aloha from Paradise,