Mixed Plate
Favorite Personal alt.surfing Posts

Here's some complete threads from Dejanews that I've participated in:

     Trip to new-zealand
     Best surfspot name....
     You know it's a big swell...
     Most Embarrassing Surfing Experience Thread

Below are some favorite posts that I've done:

      Contenders and Pretenders
      Re: the Wurst, not Worst, nor Worse (The Grammar Police) Wipeout
      Re: respect - boogers vs standup
      Re: Contest Love 'em, or hate 'em
      Re: Sandman and Foondoggy visit Neal Miyake
      Re: standups vs spongers
      Re: Violence: The old days
      Re: Need some names for a surf band
      Re: VMLXD muses...
      Re: VMLXD - where to boogie board?
      Re: The Warrior Within
      Re: Can anyone answer these fundamental questions?
      Re: Opinions on respect. part 3
      Re: How do you JUDGE WAVE SIZE?


Subject:      Contenders & Pretenders
From:         "Neal Miyake" 
Date:         1998/02/09

In the latest Surfing mag (4/98), Steve Dwyer wrote a rambling essay that
criticized undeserved big wave riders.  Fair enough, especially coming from
a Mavericks man who has probably seen his lineup get clogged by more than
its share of wannabes.  (Though I did see a hint of envy in his writing.)
However, the thing about that story that caught my attention was this
little snippet:

"Some guys have gone so far as to design their own Web pages to share their
self authored myths with the world.  Have you seen some of the crap on the
Internet about surfing?  Talk about authoring your own myth, just look up
surf and do a search for anything surf, you'll find some world classbulls--t."

Gee.  And to think that all this time, I thought everything written on the
Internet was the truth.  :-)

Sandman, you better write to them (at surfing@mcmullinargus.com) and set
the record straight.  I dub thee the Seargent-at-Arms of our newly formed
Internet Surfing Writer's Guild.  Protect our integrity!  Oh, and don't
forget to tell them you are one of the former, not the latter.

sponge (a Michelin Man yahoo who loves to spin the bulls--t)
HI Surf Advisory (http://www.iav.com/~sponge/)

Subject:      Re: the  Wurst, not Worst, nor Worse (The Grammar Police) Wipeout
From:         "Neal Miyake" 
Date:         1998/01/30

Foondoggy  wrote:
> Neal Miyake wrote:
> > 
> > oops... my bad.
> > 
> > sponge
> This was a bad one. My wife and I were walking in Central Park in New
> York just before Christmas. The sidewalks and paths were just full of
> people. In the distance I could see a crew of 6-8 skateboarders flashing
> down one of the paths yelling and blowing shrill whistles for people to
> get out of the way. At the side of a large intersection of two paths
> stood one of those aluminum Sabbett Weiner Carts that specialized in
> selling all manner of hot dogs, kielbasa, wursts, and hoagies.  As the
> crew sped down a short steep hill to the intersection most of the
> pedestrians tried to move out of harms way. For a fraction of a second
> one of the skateboarders was distracted, by time he looked back up he
> crashed broadside into the weiner cart, tipping it over, spewing dozens
> of hot dogs, half smokes, bratwursts and sodas all over the place, not
> to mention the noxious water they were floating in. The kid jumped up,
> grabbed his board and attempted to flee but his wheels skid on a patch
> of kraut dumping him at the feet of the vendor, who was in a rage.  In
> all my years, it was the wurst wipeout I'd ever seen in NYC.


But Foondoggy, you forgot to finish the story.  After apprehending the kid
and turning him over to authorities, you helped pull the weiner cart
upright.  Of course, seeing that her good samaritan husband was doing his
good turn for the day, Mrs. Foon headed over to 5th Ave, and proceeded to
max out your Visa limit.  Anyway, you kept the skateboard for yourself and
eventually found your calling as a semi-pro half-pipe specialist.

Jumping on the board, you start doing ollies and 720's right in the middle
of the sidewalk.  Then you asked the vendor, "I hope I don't look like a
buffoon--a fortysomething year old redhead on a skateboard in the middle of
New Yawk."

Since the hotdog vendor was new to this country, the only word he caught
was "buffoon."  But in appreciation of your kindness, he decided to create
a specialty hotdog in your honor, complete with mustard, ketchup,
saurkraut, onions and a scoop of noxious hotdog water.  Thus the buffoondog
was born.  But, because New Yawkers have such a hard time pronouncing words
correctly, they decided to shorten it to 'foondog.

And now you know how our beloved Foondoggy got his nickname.

HI Surf Advisory (http://www.iav.com/~sponge/)

Subject:      Re: respect - boogers vs standup
From:         "Neal Miyake" 
Date:         1997/12/18

Getting tired of responding to these irrational posts, but here goes...

Dave Harris  wrote:
> The debate rages,
> Just get out there on any watercraft (well, maybe not skis)
> What gets me pissed is the fact that before the booger invasion, there
> used to be some sort of pecking order and respect in the waves. Now it's
> every man for himself, fuck the order, lets just drop in, who cares?
> It's now gotten to the point of being rediculous, at least on my beach. 

That's right.  Bodyboards have made the surfing world more accessible.  But
it is crowds, not specifically bodyboarders, that have caused this
breakdown in the lineup.  Back in the late fifties, some lineups were
literally packed with wannabes on surfboards--same thing.  You should be
sounding off at beginners, not just bodyboarders.

> My message to the booger community is HAVE SOME FUCKING RESPECT!!
> Yes, that's right RESPECT! Respect for those surfers who have taken the
> time to learn to ride standup boards. I'm sure if riding standup was as
> easy as lying on a piece of soft shit then there would be no boogers!

Me too.  I remember when there was a great pecking order in the lineup. 
But that wasn't necessarily all good.  This is the type of attitude that
creates localism (another raging debate).

To me, respect has to be earned in the lineup.  It doesn't matter what you
ride, where you are from, how long you have surfed, or what color you
are--if you rip, you should be respected.

I agree that standup surfing has a much higher learning curve, but just
because it's harder doesn't entitle you to any wave you want.  If that was
the case, then you'd have to let me take all the waves since I can standup
on my bodyboard, which is much more difficult than surfing on a surfboard. 

> So get a grip and think before you take off and burn a REAL surfer.

Anybody who drops in on someone else is a kook.  However, a REAL surfer is
defined by attitude, not wave tool.

> PS The Duke would be turning in his grave.

The Duke would be stoked that so many people are enjoying wave riding. 
That's what his whole life was about--getting the world into the ocean. 
They could surf, bodysurf, canoe-surf, even paipoboard (the precursor to
bodyboards)--he did it all and respected all means of riding waves.

HI Surf Advisory (http://www.iav.com/~sponge/)

Subject:      Re: Contest Love 'em, or hate 'em
From:         "Neal Miyake" 
Date:         1997/11/06
Newsgroups:   alt.surfing,alt.surfing.bodyboard

Buck  wrote:
> Do u love contest or hate 'em.  

I'll probably be the only one who admits it, but I _love_ contests.

There are many different types, but I'll talk about three:  amateur series,
yearly events and pro tours.

Amateur Series -- This is the "little league" of surfing:  USSF, NSSA, ESA,
HASA, etc.  Rather than have kids getting into trouble, I see this as an
avenue of focusing their energies into something that they love.  These
kids get to make a lot of friends who have similar goals and attitudes. 
They learn about competition--truly analogous to life in the "real world". 
Judging is somewhat subjective, but so is life.  Adhering to contest rules,
the same.  Success gives them a sense of accomplishment and confidence. 
Failure, hopefully, will make them strive to better themselves, or at the
very least teach humility.  Groups like the NSSA promote education and
require a certain GPA be maintained.  The CSA promotes a Christian

Yearly Events -- These are one-shot contests like:  Makaha Big Board,
China's Longboard Classic, Halona Point Bodysurfing, Surf into Summer, etc.
 Usually started with a circle of friends, then expands from there.  These
are more community-minded events, where people who frequent that particular
break get together and celebrate surfing.  It has become a lot more
commercialized recently, with a lot of support from the surfing industry,
but still tries to carry its grassroots beginnings.

Pro Tours -- The big time.  The Association of Surfing Professionals (ASP)
has a two tiered system, with the best surfers on the World Championship
Tour (WCT), and others trying to qualify through local and international
World Qualifying Series (WQS) events.  This is where the state of the art
is defined and redefined.  If you think contest surfing has come down to
mechanical, repetitive maneuvers, you have to see the revamped ASP WCT. 
They have the most talented surfers riding the best surf breaks in the
world, and they are truly redefining our sport.  As to what this all is
doing to the everyday surfer, well, design innovations come to mind.  Mass
marketing (which is a good and bad thing) allows prices to come down.  For
me, it gives me something to admire, and a level of performance to aspire

As far as the whole judging thing, well, subjective performance sports will
always have a difficult time with this.  The standard line for judging goes
something like this:  The rider who executes the most radical controlled
maneuver in the most critical section of the biggest and/or best waves for
the longest period shall be deemed the winner.  More than a mouthful.  With
a structured event, you need a defined judging scheme.  But there are
things like style and ease--intangibles--that should be part of the judging
criteria.  Whenever I judged an event, I definitely included this in my

I think Barton Lynch said it best in Surfers, the Movie.  Paraphrasing from
memory, he said that there is competition from day one.  Whether you want
to surf better than your mate, or surf the wave as best you can, that is
competition, and it's not a bad thing.

Contests are (and should be) only a part of the whole that is surfing. 
Contests are different things to different people, and what you get out of
it depends greatly on what you expect.  If you only see it as a bad thing,
then that's how it will always be.  

For me, it has brought me into a circle of lifelong friends, and has given
me confidence and knowledge, in and out of the water that I'll carrry the
rest of my life.  I hardly compete nowadays, but I do look back at those
times, waiting endlessly on the beach for my heat to start, reading the
wave conditions, hoping not to "triangle" another rider, waiting for the
horn, watching the flags.  Once again, surfing... or rather, contest
surfing is a microcosm of life.

HI Surf Advisory (http://www.iav.com/~sponge/)

Subject: Re: Sandman and Foondoggy visit Neal Miyake 
From: "Neal Miyake"  
Date: 22 Sep 1997 20:37:51 GMT 
Message-ID: <01bcc797$6435fc60$322cfdc6@okea> 
Organization: None 
Newsgroups: alt.surfing

> > SurffOhio wrote:
> > >I would like to see a short story done on "Sandman and Foondoggy visit
> > >Neal Miyake in Hawaii". Has anyone got any good ideas?
> > >
> > >Here are a few of mine.
> > >
> > >Day one.
> > >
> > >1. Foondoggy gets mugged and the only thing taken are his Airwalks.
> > >2. The Sandman touts that he is gonna "clean up" a few locals on the
> > >Shore.
> > >3. Sandman is wearing black shorts and gets pantsed by the Hui.
> > >4. Foondoggy starts swilling down Jack Daniels at the North Shore
> > >Underground bar. After a while they get tired of hearing his "Greg
Nole is
> > >my uncle stories" and throw him out while he's screaming that Neal is
> > >close friend and they'll be back.
> > >5. Neal Miyake is chagrined and begins to lose his memberships to
> > >surf clubs.
> > >
> > >More contributions?
> > >
> > >Surff

> Nosurfatu wrote:
> > Day two.
> > 
> > Foondoggy, Neal and Sandman stop for breakfast at Dunkin' Donuts.  Foon
> > begins choking on a cruller, and Sandman starts giving him the heimlich
> > maneuver, breaking Foon's ribs in the process.  Aghast at the "crunch"
> > that emanates from Foon's midsection, Sandman drops him suddenly,
> > whereupon Foon's head strikes the counter top, knocking him
> > Sandman stufs a finn in Foons pocket as he lays prostrate, turns to
> > and says "okay, lets hit it."
> > 
> > Foondoggy somehow makes it to "Jimmylands" a good while later, and
> > by crutches, wearing a neckbrace and a gauze turban watches as Neal and
> > Sandman tear the place up.  He gingerly sits down on the sand and
> > up a cubano in homage.
> > -------------------
> > 
> > Sorry Foon, in light of your frequent mishaps, I couldn't help myself.
> > 
> > --noSURFatu

Foondoggy  wrote:
> Day three: Dawn Patrol- Foon, Sandman and Neal head off to Neal's secret
> spot, (Back Door), and since it is some Hawaiian national Holiday
> (Invention of Poi Day) the place is empty because everyone is attending
> the various parades and festivals. Back Door is 4' Hawaiian, and they
> all tear into the first set like hungry jackals. The session is
> punctuated with incredible tunnels and coverups. Then Sandman, unable to
> resist aggravating someone, begins to diss Foon about being a sponger.
> Foon gets tired of the continuous and amateurish teasing and offers to
> meet Sandman out in the lineup on a 7'2" round pintail to show Sandman
> he can still standup ride. Neal grabs his camera and water housing and a
> roll of 36 Fuji, and heads out to the lineup to document the epic duel.
> Sandman scores the first ride and rates a "10" (of course) on the
> Sandman surfmeter. Foon wipes out. Sandman scores another tube nailing
> off the lips while doing a handstand, Foon wipes out.  Sandman strokes
> into a set wave and pops a 360 inverto aerial (in the barrel), Foon
> wipes out.  Neal of course has this all on film.
> The final wave of the day is a monster. Foon is lined up on the peak and
> has priority. Sandman, judging Foon's previous performance, decides to
> snake him and does. Foon wipes out. Sandman get the ride of his life and
> a standing ovation from the Hui onshore.
> Sandman spends an hour signing autographs, Neal spends and hour taking
> orders for the pictures, and Foon.......where's Foon!?????? No one has
> seen him leave the water. He's gone....probably drown..... lost to the
> group forever.
> Two days later Foon's body washes up at Sunset Beach, Battered, broken
> and very dead. In the pocket of his cheap cotton shorts the coroner
> finds the soggy remnants of the PowerBall winning lottery ticket for 150
> million dollars. Mrs.Foon gets the money and is very pissed off.(Need I
> say "Hell hath no fury...")  She buys Sandman's company and has him
> fired, then she hires a half dozen of the biggest, nastiest Island
> Bruddas whose only job, for the rest of their lives will be to shadow
> the Sandman and cut him off of every wave he ever tries for.
> The bronze statue of Foon is erected on the beach where he perished.
> Back Door is renamed "Donuts" and Neal Miyake makes a fortune selling
> pictures of Foondoggy's last ride to surfing rags all over the world.
> The shot shows clearly how badly Sandman snaked Foon and he becomes a
> leper in the surfing world (not to mention the rest of it). Unable to
> take the persecution, Sandman becomes a follower of the Dali Lama and
> moves to Tibet, shaves his head and wears a saffron robe.
> Moral of the story: Don't make fun of Foon after he's sold his beach
> house and suffered another injury - he can get real pissy.
> -Foon (Forgive me all, its' the painkillers talkin')
One month later:
The alt.surfing group is inundated with stories about Foondoggy and the
Sandman.  The most active threads were:  (1) "Leash that 'Doggy"--arguing
about whether Foondoggy would've survived if he had worn a leash, (2)
"Poetic Justice on the Sand'"--wondering if the Sandman got what he
deserved, (3) "It was only 3 feet Hawaiian!"--challenging the East Coast
wave measurement of Foon's last ride, (4) "Spongedoggy got his
due"--started by VLMXD, putting down all bodyboarders, dead or alive, and
(5) "Contests still suck".

Rick Ciaccio is so traumatized by the events that he takes up bodyboarding.
 He proceeds to whip Chad Barba's ass by completing the first triple-axis
move, the ARSF (Air-Rollo-Spinner-Flip), off a ten foot death closeout at
the Wedge.  He still wears Speedos, though.

The alt.smokers.cigars newsgroup creates a special cigar in his homage,
named the Foonstogie.  Made of prime Maryland tobacco, the leaves are
processed with Jack Daniels and Krispy Kreme donuts to produce a sweet
cigar with a bite.  However, no one under 40 is allowed to smoke it.

Da Hui are so impressed by Foondoggy's heroics that they create a
commemorative Foontrunks.  It is black (of course) with red freckles on the
side paneling.  The waistband is highlighted in brown, signifying the holy

Both Surfer and Surfing magazines do cover articles on the life and times
of Foondoggy.  They expose his home break, which turns out to be so good
that all future ESA championships are held there.  Airwalks Shoes buy a
whole page in each mag with the full wipeout sequence (from Neal),
declaring, "Aloha Ilio!"-- Goodbye 'Doggy!

Fang does a poignant story on Surfergrrl (http://www.surfergrrl.com/),
about despite being a male, Foondoggy had the heart of a true feminist.  Of
course, Mrs. Foondoggy had trained him well.

By the way, the Mrs. also donates $10M to Queens hospital to start a trauma
clinic for aging surfers in Haleiwa.  Radio keratotamy and half-pipe
injuries become the most common treatments.

After collecting all my royalties from picture sales of that fateful day, I
recently visited the bronze statue of Foondoggy.  I go there often, alone,
to reflect on life.  The statue is stoically overlooking Donuts (renamed
from Backdoor), still shiny despite the film of Hawaiian salt encrusting
it.  An eight foot north swell is coming in, but there is no one out in the
early dawn.  A triple-strand 12 foot *Kauai* maile lei is draped over
Foon's shoulders.  

As I approach the statue, I notice something different.  Someone has placed
a worn ballcap on its head with the bold, embroidered words, "Surf Free or
Die".  Then I see a form turn the corner near the Ehukai Beach Park
bathroom.  The dude is bald, and wearing a saffron robe, but the thing that
caught my eye was his 7 mil booties.

Could it have been the Sandman?  Nah, must've been my imagination.  Anyway,
it's time to paddle out so I can write another "Expression Session" report.
 I didn't ride one for Princess Di, but I'm going to try and snag a nice
pit for the Foonster.  Now if only I can find my damned leash...

A hui hou,  (see you later)
HI Surf Advisory (http://www.iav.com/~sponge/)

Subject:      Re: standups vs spongers
From:         "Neal Miyake" 
Date:         1997/09/17
Message-Id:   <01bcc30a$58c5f970$322cfdc6@okea>
Newsgroups:   alt.surfing,alt.surfing.bodyboard

the Sandman  wrote:
> Neal Miyake wrote:
> > 
> > Are you planning to surf Honolua?  I've never been.
> > 
> A friend of mine says he doesn't surf there much. I'll
> be staying with him if I decide to go. He
> says he surfs alot of places but mainly Hookeepa (sp).
> I've never surfed the Islands so I don't know squat...

Spelled Hookipa.  Windsurfing capital of the world.  Never been there
either, but heard it can get good.
> should I wear black shorts?

This question begged to be answered in so many ways, I couldn't help but
make a list of responses.  Take your pick (or add one of your own):

1.  As long as you leave the 4/3 at home.
2.  Nah, short, pink ones look way cooler.  You can also use them for
eveningwear in Lahaina.
3.  So many people are wearing black shorts, that the Hui has adopted plad
Bermudas as their new shorts of choice.  Wear those... and don't forget
black socks with flip-flops.
4.  Yes, you already got the 'tude.
5.  Only if you bodyboard.  :-)
6.  By all means.  Otherwise, if you want to skinny dip, go to Little Beach
(and find someone else to surf with).
7.  Sure, just hide that hideous fullsuit tan line first.
8.  No, I think the mauve ones highlight your eyes better.
9.  Yes!  But practice the line, "Focking haole, you like beef, or wot?" 
Watch the movie "The North Shore", then you too can be a certified member
of the Hui.
10.  Didn't you see my "Boxers vs Briefs" thread?  The consensus was
volleyball shorts!

Hey Sandman, you might luck out and get in a session at Jaws while you're
there.  That spot is a piece of cake... water's not even cold.  Say hi to
Laird for me.

HI Surf Advisory (http://www.iav.com/~sponge/)

Subject: Re: Violence: The old days 
From: "Neal Miyake"  
Date: 15 Sep 1997 17:09:16 GMT 
Message-ID: <01bcc1fa$17b58c90$322cfdc6@okea> 
Organization: None 
Newsgroups: alt.surfing  
References: <5vdig1$bhr$2@gte1.gte.net> 

Brian Davis  wrote:
> Here's a new thread. Was there as much agro
> localism and violence in the early days of
> surfing?

In my younger days of bodyboarding (late-70's, early 80's), my world
revolved around Brenneckes Beach on Kauai.  Back then, there was a definite
hierarchy in the lineup.  The regular longtime locals (who usually were the
best bodyboarders or bodysurfers anyway) got pretty much any wave they
wanted.  The kids like us got the scraps.  The tourists, well they were
sometimes treated a bit badly.  If you were an outsider, you would get some
mean stink eye in the lineup, but if you ripped, you could ascend to
near-local status quickly.

As far as real violence or arguments, there weren't any.  Everyone knew
their place.  I did hear lots of stories of people being "sent in" by
locals at other, more protected breaks.  It usually ended there, without
physical action.

Nowadays, I think just the sheer number of people in the lineups have
overthrown those old ways of localism.  I personally don't care too much
for heavy localism, but I really believe there should be more respect out
in the lineup.

HI Surf Advisory (http://www.iav.com/~sponge/)

Subject:      Re: Need some names for a surf band
From:         "Neal Miyake" 
Date:         1997/09/09
Message-Id:   <01bcbd5f$69e2b820$322cfdc6@okea>
Newsgroups:   alt.surfing

Gone Gasser  wrote:

> I was wondering if anybody out there could help me think up a name for
> my Surf Band...

Here's more names to choose from:

Maynard and the Rats
Greg and Da Bulls
Dora and the Bu Crew
The Gidgets
The Haole Boys
The Hot Curls
The Scratchers

HI Surf Advisory (http://www.iav.com/~sponge/)
former axeman and throat for the now-defunct ukulele group, The Misty's

Subject: Re: VMLXD muses... 
From: "Neal Miyake"  
Date: 14 Jul 1997 17:14:12 GMT Message-ID: <01bc9079$592327d0$322cfdc6@okea> 
Organization: None 
Newsgroups: alt.surfing  
References: <19970713053800.BAA29895@ladder02.news.aol.com> 

VMLXD  wrote:

Good ole' VMLXD... Ya gotta love him.  Flame-baiter extraordinnaire.

> Nay, bro's, nope.  That because while the sport may involve riding waves,
> it's not surfing.  A few years back one of these pubs actually did try to
> put bodyboarding in their editorial pages -- and the villianous copy was
> run out of town. (As it well should have been, I may add.)

Back in the early nineties, during the surf industry recession,
Bodyboarding mag was consolidated with Surfing mag, with four pages for the
spongers (myself included).  It was a matter of economics, not attempted
acceptance.  Now that the industry is back on its feet, the publisher can
field separate mags.
> But don't get all riled up.  I may not particularly like the bobbing
> masses, but they do indeed have the right to be out there.  Real surfers,
> however, don't have to like it though.  And by the way, I don't
> why their kind don't simply start there own newsgroup.

We do have alt.surfing.bodyboard.  It's not very well represented, though,
so most of us post to alt.surfing, where there is more open-mindedness and
acceptance (yeah right).
> And should a bodyboarder be out there, well, good, in fact, tally ho! 
> Nothing like the resonating plunk! of fiberglass thunking on a
> bellboarders skull.  Ah, I love the smell of blood encrusted foam in the
> morning.  

Now, now.  That happened to me in Mex.  If you can't steer, don't drive.

Keep the intensity, toss the prejudice.


Subject:      Re: VMLXD - where to boogie board?
From:         sponge@iav.com (Neal Miyake)
Date:         1997/06/26
Message-Id:   <5ou7mv$fu6@snews2.zippo.com>
Newsgroups:   alt.surfing,alt.surfing.bodyboard

VMLXD (vmlxd@aol.com) wrote:
: I don't doubt nor acknowledge that some of those bobbing spongers
: demonstrate considerable talent and courage in taking their choice of wave
: riding equipment into the foaming briney...

Alright!  An aknowledgement by V that some spongers can rip...

: However, none of that changes the simple, unalterable, irrecoverable and
: unchallengeable truth that body boarding is a desecration of the
: sport...

So were leashes, wetsuits, fiberglass and foam, shortboards, multiple
fins, shortboards, etc.  Where would we be without constant evolution?

(Not to say that surfing will evolve into exclusively bodyboarding--they
probably will be separate branches on the waveriding tree.  However,
surfing has a lot to learn from bodyboarding, and vice versa.) 

: It is a blight.  It is like a fungus.  A bacteria.  A nausea-inducing
: virus.  

If it is, then I'm infected!  Watch out, V, one day you may find yourself
on your belly, pulling into the shorebreak.  When you do, I'll be on the
beach smiling.


Subject:      Re: The Warrior Within
From:         sponge@iav.com (Neal Miyake)
Date:         1997/05/05
Message-Id:   <5kl72c$nv7@snews2.zippo.com>
Newsgroups:   alt.surfing,alt.surfing.bodyboard

Foondoggy (wfover@nist.gov) wrote:
: I was
: disturbed by the cavelier way in which "putting your life on the line"
: was suggested for the sake of having bragging rights about participating
: in some dangerous activity. Are we all so needy of that adrenalin rush
: that fighting and killing once satisfied, that we now foolishly attempt
: things that would needlessly put our lives in danger?

I too, would answer that with a qualified 'yes'.  There have been a few
times where I probably should not have gone out (see
http://www.iav.com/~sponge/sesh/nm_obs14.htm), and I'd warn everyone out
there to know your limits.  

However, I'm going to be hypocritical and say that I've felt a deep
satisfaction from going through those situations.  Some surf clothing
company aptly (though irresponsibly) put it, "If you survive, it will only
make you stronger." 

: I've never really bought into the surf contest arguement either. The
: sport is too subjective for me to be judged and I've never really
: understood the rules anyway. Yet there must be many out there who feed
: their ancient need to compete, struggle, and dominate
: (kill-metaphorically speaking) or contests would not survive.

Competition is just a means of being recognized as the best.  I've loved
contests, and it has broadened my love for the sports of surfing and
bodyboarding.  It also feels good when they announce your name in first
place (though they have done so on very few occasions for me).  I like to
get my ego stroked once in a while.

However, after a few years, the trophies just become a meaningless pile of
plastic, with only a few precious memories within.

I think age has a lot to do with the desire to succeed and be recognized. 
Throughout my 20 plus years in the water, my motivation to surf has
constantly changed (I've been planning to write about this in future post,
but will introduce the idea here).  I was a late bloomer, so when I
finally could compete athletically, my chosen arena was the ocean. 

Now that I'm older (and supposedly wiser), I feel that I've gotten it out
of my system and don't have to prove anything (in the competitive arena,
anyway).  I go out and surf just for the sake of surfing. 

In a sense, I'm still boasting, but in a different forum (alt.surfing). 
Oh well, I guess some things never change. :)

BTW, I once beat the #1 pro bodyboarder in the world.  *Her* name was
Stephanie Petterson and the only reason I beat her was because she lost
her board. She got fourth, I got third, and neither of us advanced out of
our first round heat. 


Subject: Can anyone answer these fundamental questions? 
From: sponge@iav.com (Neal Miyake) 
Date: 2 May 1997 16:44:37 GMT 
Message-ID: <5kd5ll$les@snews2.zippo.com> 
Organization: None 
Keywords: surfing bodyboarding hawaii sponge 
Newsgroups: alt.surfing

OK Pete, where did you get this stuff--Deep Thoughts from SNL?  Anyway,
I'll give it a lash.  BTW, I'm agnostic.

>> If total reality is infinite in extent, how is it that out of that came
>> finite world (and presumably finite universe)?

Maybe because our "life" is not our total reality/existence.  Our life on
Earth is a finite point in space and time, but our existence and being is
infinite--we just don't know it yet.

>> How can you get symmetry breaking out of infinitely divisible space,
>> is necessary to produce our obviously asymmetrical world?
This sounds like a question that contradicts itself.

>> If an electron can travel through an infinite number of positions in
>> getting from a to b, how does it actually reach any place in less than
>> infinite time ?(yes, just a statement of Zeno's paradox but don't quote
>> Cauchy at me---  I still think the definition of the limit is suspect
>> the real world)
Distance can be broken into infinite positions, but so can time.

Whew!  Now, let us partake in liquified energy of infinite continuity--We
go surf!


Subject:      Opinions on respect. part 3
From:         sponge@ohana.com (Neal Miyake)
Date:         1996/11/26
Message-Id:   <57f6f7$d84@rigel.pixi.com>
Newsgroups:   alt.surfing,alt.surfing.bodyboard

>Bonzer wrote:
>When we encounter fellow surfers in the water, we have no idea the
>challenges they have faced to be out there. We have no idea what they
>have gone through just to make it out.
Good words Bonz.  True, there is a lot less respect in the lineup, and
people's challenges are often-timed exploited in the lineup.

I've seen this guy from Kauai with no arm bodyboard.  He was the most
stoked guy in the water when he got a good one.  

I met another in Rhode Island (Mario) with no arm.  He just folded up the
extra wetsuit arm and charged the frigid waters.

A local politician (Lee Wai Doo) is a paraplegic, but still manages to
surf 10' Sunset in a kind of dropknee stance.

Then there's Liz Arlen, a bodyboarder from Maui who was born with only one
leg.  She walks her crutches to the shoreline, then puts on her gear and
charges big Pipe (Liz is a pro bodyboarder, by the way).

Of course, their handicaps are obvious, but they still have to deal with
snakes and bad vibes.

We should all try and keep surfing fun.  And be grateful for having the
opportunity to be surfers.

stay stoked,

Subject:      Re: How do you JUDGE WAVE SIZE?
From:         sponge@news.ohana.com (Neal Miyake)
Date:         1996/05/15
Message-Id:   <4nd1rc$l09@rigel.pixi.com>
Newsgroups:   alt.surfing

In Hawaii, we "measure from the back," meaning, we essentially cut the 
wave face height in half.  The reason (I think) is because of 
Californians in the 50s and 60s sandbagging to surprise newcomers to the 
islands.  I know it's stupid, but it's the standard that everyone uses.

Nowadays, if you don't call it like the locals do, you'll be put down big 
time.  The local media, especially the radio, perpetuate the underestimating.

So, three feet is head high, six is double overhead.  Don't even ask what 
twenty-five is.

When I was working at the Eddie in 89, I asked the judging panel how big 
they thought it was.  There was a long silence before someone (I think 
Jack Shipley) said, "Overhead!"  I guess only Ken Bradshaw is allowed to 
make the call at Waimea.

Interesting personal observation:  a six foot wave in the Country is bigger 
than a six foot wave in Town.


P.S. Right now, Town is one-to-two feet.