| Mixed Plate|
Quickie Book Reviews 2
30 Years of Riding the World's Biggest Waves, Fred Van Dyke
That said, I found this book extremely entertaining. The seal stories were surreal (especially since I've had some interaction of my own). But Fred delved into some interesting topics and personalities. Ala Moana, a secret spot? Get out of here!
The most interesting to me was the many wipeout references. Fred was very frank in his descriptions on what wipeouts did to your mind and how fear eventually catches up to you. I found these passages the most intriguing.
Despite the poor structure, I liked the book. Two thumbs up! [Link]
The Tribes of Palos Verdes, Joy Nicholson
The Big Drop: Classic Big Wave Surfing Stories, edited by John Long
A few primo b&w photos peppered throughout the book truly enforce the intensity
of the stories. The tow-in madness is so surreal. The final words
from my buddy Peter Cole is classic! [Link]
In Search of Captain Zero: A Surfer's Road Trip Beyond the End
of the Road, Allan C. Weisbecker
Surf Rage: A Surfer's Guide to Turning Negatives into Positives,
introduced by Nat Young
Surfer's Guide to Hawaii (1991), Greg Ambrose
Greg has solid credentials, being the former longtime surf reporter for the Honolulu Star Bulletin (I could swear he used to spell his name "Gregg"). After this book was published, he moved to the West Coast (coincidence?). (Btw, of the 54 surfspots featured, I've ridden 34 of them.)
Surfing Hawaii: The Ultimate Guide to the World's Most Challenging Waves (2000), Leonard and Lorca Lueras
The surfspot information is very accurate, but lacks a quick reference conditions guide. They readily admit that much is omitted out of respect to local surfers and challenge the readers to discover Hawaii for themselves.
The book has some exceptional photos, both old and new. It was immediately obvious that it was printed in Southeast Asia (Singapore).
Cosmic Banditos, Allan C. Weisbecker