Freeze Frame (Photos)

PIVOTAL PHOTOS (2 of 5)


Mysto point, Superbowl Sunday, 1982. This day was my first true encounter with big waves. I ended up paddling out there and catching a grand total of 0 waves!

Freight-train right, Superbowl Sunday, 1982. Same day as above, but different place. This puppy is a radical wave with a mind-boggling rip. Triple black diamond.

Brenneckes Beach, 1982. This photo is a perfect representation of my memory of the old Brenneckes. Glassy tubes, shallow sand, lots of people, summer fun. In November of '82, Hurricane Iwa tore thru Kauai and forever destroyed it.

Brenneckes Beach, 1982. Stormy day at Brenneckes. Despite all the chop, check out how smooth and powerful the barrel was. I hated that guy who is duck-diving--punk!

Brenneckes Beach, 1982. Another mood of Brenneckes. I was enroute to a party, so I didn't get wet on this day. My mother used to say, "Why do you take so many pictures of waves--they all look alike." Mom, every wave is unique. :-)

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