THE JOURNEY
RETROSPECT
REND
REPAIR
REST
RECOVER
REHAB
RETURN





    

REND

11/14/13: On a recent trip to San Diego, alt.surfing legend Bill Andrews and I went scouting around La Jolla for waves early one morning, but it just wasn't happening.


I decided to drop in on another alt.surfing brother, Tom Tweed, before bailing. Tom mentioned he still had the infamous alt.surfing surfboard that worked its way across the country from the East Coast.


So I decided to catch a few waves with it so I could officially sign my name on it. Went to Windansea and saw a few tiny peaks and nobody out. So I eagerly jumped in (obtw, I did not do my typical stretching routine).


Caught one off the bat. The board was a boat; I couldn't really turn it. Kicked out the back of the wave before reaching shore. Paddled back out for another.


Took a little while to get the second one. I was tooling around with my GoPro so that made it more challenging. Finally got one and kept going into the shorebreak. Suddenly the sandbar reared up at me as swirling sand kicked up under the board. I remembered jumping off instinctively, shut my eyes, then heard and felt a loud crunch. Not sure if my left foot curled like a sprain or it planted and torqued out or the board rail hit it. In any case, I immediately knew that I injured myself. Thankfully, I did *not* catch my ordeal on video. (Actual photo of the fateful ride courtesy Tom Tweed)


Crawled up the beach to assess my injury. My foot was dangling down from my ankle. I tried placing it back, hoping it was just some kind of dislocation, but no luck. It just flopped down again and again. Kept trying anyway.

More random pics...

Next chapter: REPAIR























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